After the antique Weber kettle grill finally saw its last cookout (a tasty mixed grill of kielbasa, chicken and burgers), I ventured to a local mega-store in hopes of finding a replacement. After comparing a few features and some price tags, I emerged as the owner of a 22″ Uniflame square charcoal grill.
I felt good about the decision. After all, I had grilled up a series of masterpieces using nothing more complicated than the venerable Weber orb and the Uniflame looked just as nice as any Weber charcoal offering. Of course, the fact it cost me around thirty bucks was attractive, too.
My excitement wavered a few hours later as I watched two beautiful porterhouse steaks sagging on the cheap grill over lukewarm coals. Clearly, I had wasted thirty dollars.
Before we start focusing on the sizzle-free grilling experience in detail, however, let’s review the actual construction of the Uniflame grill. Assembly was a do-it-myself proposition and only took a few minutes. All parts and hardware were clearly labeled and the instructions were easy to understand. The manufacturer even supplied the necessary screwdriver.
The grill felt relatively sturdy. Obviously, it was not up to par with a heavy-duty model, but for the price, it seemed solid. The hinged warming rack that attaches to both the top and bottom of the main grill unit looked a bit cheap and the rather strange leg assembly was a durability question mark, but overall I was still a happy griller as I wheeled my new bbq onto the patio.
I removed the top grill and emptied some premium charcoal into the grill. I immediately noticed the very small distance between the charcoal rack and the base of the grill. I wondered a bit about that, but assumed the manufacturers knew what they were doing. My teepee of Kingsfords lit quickly and never required a second treatment of lighter fluid. Before too long, they were ashed over and glowing red. Time for the meat.
After spreading the coals, I placed the grill back in place. This is when I noticed the four small clips that hold the grill in place are a little flimsy and are prone to accidentally working loose any time the grid is lifted. I also noticed that putting the grid in place was a challenge due to the structure of the aforementioned warming rack. At that point, I was more concerned with the small space between the grid and the coals – only a few inches. I thought I’d have to be careful to avoid burning my supper. That fear was misplaced.
Even though the grid had been in place over ashy coals for several minutes, there was no real sizzle when the meat hit the metal. At best, there was a slight hiss. A day of looking forward to a medium rare porterhouse slid into an evening of cooking using the equivalent of indirect heat and smoking techniques. The grill groaned under the strain of two steaks and its outer edges remained lukewarm at all times.
Since that first evening, I have used the Uniflame 22″ square grill on five other occasions, each time attempting to adjust my strategy in hopes of mastering the grill. Each time, I have been disappointed. Hamburgers were time consuming. Chicken was dry and too smoky. Even preparing a simple sausage appetizer was frustrating. I used every possible variation and permutation on my own time-tested grilling techniques to produce a summer outdoor feast. The Uniflame crushed my efforts every time.
After extensive testing and way too much thought, I have reached a few conclusions about this grill. Its primary weakness is not its lightweight construction. That would be more than acceptable, considering the price, if it functioned properly. The problem is oxygen. The contraption hates air and is built to keep it away. The top vent is a traditional circular number that works fine. There is no bottom vent. None. There is a small damper in the front of the grill, but this does little to encourage airflow under and around the coals, which are located very close to the bottom of the unit. Without air, there is no oxygen. Without oxygen, there is no heat.
Unless one wants to rely upon special effects and lighter fluid, you will never see a dancing flame emerge from this 22″ Uniflame charcoal grill. You’ll never need that spray bottle of water again to tame unruly fire, but you’ll never get a nice sizzling piece of meat, either. Don’t even think of preparing a full meal on the grill.
When grill shopping, resist the urge to go cheap. If you must try to save a few dollars, avoid this particular model. You may be able to occasionally produce a half-decent hotdog on it, but you could have done that with a small campfire and a stick.
