Long before food critics coined the phrase fusion cuisine, to describe food that blends culinary traditions of two or more nations, Jamaican cuisine existed. Considering the history of the island, it is unsurprising that Jamaican food combines a variety for techniques and styles.
Before Columbus arrived in Jamaica in 1494, Arawak Indians lived there. They introduced the island to its most popular dish – Jerk, ground pimento and scotch bonnet pepper are used to marinate meat before it is slowly cooked on pimento wood. It is said the Arawaks brought this cooking technique with them when they arrived from South America, where people often smoke seasoned meat or left it to dry in the sun. Escaped African slaves called Maroons also played a part in the evolution of Jerk. Since these slaves lived in fear of being recaptured by the Europeans they learnt to preserve their meat by wrapping it in leaves with spices, pepper and salt. The preserved meat was then cooked on wood fire to create a smoky, jerky dish.
The popular dish Rice & Peas is a culinary tribute to West Africa; it is made by steaming rice and peas (often red kidney beans) in coconut milk with spices. Some real ‘old timers’ even add Janga, which is what Jamaicans call crayfish. If you extract the coconut milk and crayfish from the rice and peas recipe you get Ghanaian Wakye, and if you ever feel the urge to make rice and peas with no peas your dish will be reminiscent Nigerian Coconut Rice.
Salt preserved Codfish or ‘saltfish’ is a common ingredient in Jamaican cooking. Once the fish has been soaked in water to remove the excess salt, it is fried in vegetable oil with spices and a spinach like vegetable called Callaloo to make Callaloo and Saltfish. This common Jamaican breakfast is similar to Ghanaian Kentumere: the Jamaicans use vegetable oil and Callaloo while the Ghanaians use palm oil and cassava leaf. The commonality between Jamaican and West African cooking does not end there: like West Africans, Jamaicans eat “hard food” which is boiled root tubers like sweet potato, yam and cassava.
The West African slaves who came to the Caribbean island in the 16th century certainly left their imprint on the island’s cooking. So did the Chinese and East Indian indentured servants who came to work on the plantations after slavery was abolished. The Chinese introduced Jamaicans to Fried Rice, a tasty dish where meat and vegetables are mixed with boiled rice and soya sauce. The islands much loved curry dishes are clearly Indian inspired, although the Jamaicans do not use some spices commonly found in Indian curries such as Cardamom and Star Anise. A European influence is also felt in Jamaican food. Escovitch fish which is cooked with a touch of vinegar, tomatoes and seasoning like onion and garlic bears some similarity to Spanish Ceviche.
One could argue that the Jamaican Patty is the greatest example of Jamaican fusion. The turmeric or curry used to make the golden shell is Indian, the African spice is felt in the filling; the shape and size of the patty is like an English turnover. The next time you crave fusion food, visit your local Jamaican restaurant- mixing foods from different cultures since the 16th Century.
References
The ladies in my family who taught me that Jamaican food is a living record of our diverse history.
