I tend to be skeptical of new ice cream, gelato, and frozen yogurt (henceforth known as “froyo”) venues. Many seem to prioritize a slick, sophisticated image over the most important thing: flavor. Although cupcake shops wear the crown as the current novelty craze, with new ones popping up on every street corner, froyo shops have long been a staple in every strip mall, airport, or vacation stop. They have been touted as the healthier alternative to ice cream. I can remember visiting TCBY in just such a strip mall as a kid, and being more conscious of the “low calorie” jargon encircling the menu board than the actual product dispensed from the stainless steel machine. TCBY was nothing to write home about, at least from my standpoint back then; it was more of a letdown, actually, as a visit there meant that a real treat (re: the local soft serve ice cream stand) would have to wait until later.
Fast forward a few years, perhaps a decade, and a recent trip to Swirlberry has led me to reconsider my stance on froyo. I visited the Swirlberry housed within the Plum Market in Ann Arbor, Michigan. If not for a freebie coupon in the Ann Arbor News (RIP), I probably would not have given the place much thought. Upon arrival, I was surprised to see that the menu was refreshingly simple. In much the same way that America’s premier burrito chair, Chipotle, limits its menu to a few selections, Swirlberry lists a handful of rotating flavors.
The pomegranate froyo tasted extremely fresh – not the usual generic, artificial fruit taste so often associated with frozen treats. The texture was smooth, and the flavor so robust that toppings would have only detracted from my enjoyment. The Plum Market location serves up its froyo in designated sizes, as the space is small and does not permit the “self-serve,” mix as many flavors together as you’d like, and pay by the pound method that other froyo shops have. At Ann Arbor’s State Street location, however, you can pay by the pound. Simply grab a cup, browse the flavors, and pull the lever to release creamy goodness into your cup. You can combine the original tart flavor with deep chocolate or latte, if the flavor combination intrigues you. On a visit to the State Street shop, I tried a combination of three flavors. The mango, not surprisingly, is very mild. The coffee and deep chocolate worked well together, although I’d prefer the more potent chocolate of a high-butterfat ice cream or smoother quality of a DQ chocolate cone. The fruit flavors win at Swirlberry. I’ve yet to try the Original Tart, but can say that the pomegranate alone is worth a return trip (and only 29 calories per ounce!).
There are two locations in Ann Arbor, one in West Bloomfield, and additional ones to come in Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Florida, and Georgia. The only note of caution: beware how full you fill your cup. Filling half of a Styrofoam cup at the DIY State Street location could run up your tab to well over $4. Consider that a soft serve cone at the local stand goes for about $2, and an entire 12-serving container of Edy’s will set you back about $3. So, plan your self-service strategically, and by all means, use the mini test cups to sample the choices.
