I’ve always considered sushi to be an acquired taste, a sort of delicacy that few fall in love with at first bite. So it was quite a surprise when my dining partner-a vehement sushi abstainer-sheepishly ended up devouring half my plate of the previously dubbed “icky raw fish stuff,” while dining at the sleek 711 Underground Bistro and Sushi Bar. I was impressed. These folks obviously know how to make the most of their culinary wiles, converting the seafood shy into sushi revelers. Their secret? An impressive Pan-Asian menu capable of seducing both the sushi novice and aficionado. (And, in the case of my brave dining partner, it was the mayo-yes, the mayonnaise in the sushi-that had him hooked.)
Occupying the cozy underground space that was once Jae’s restaurant, 711 Bistro opened its doors relatively recently and has been creating a rising buzz ever since. My first visit-a Thursday evening in mid-June-was a quiet one, with only a few patrons seated in the dining room. In comparison, on my most recent visit-another Thursday evening in early August-I found myself enmeshed within a lively, packed crowd, with live jazz entertainment in the background. It’s clear they must be doing something right.
That “something” can be attributed, in part, to general manager Andrew Trombly, a young yet savvy veteran of the restaurant industry. Throughout our meal, I watched him dart around the dining room with an energetic ease, and it was apparent that his attentive, hands-on approach was an effective one.
The rest of 711’s “it” factor lies, quite simply, in the food, drink and atmosphere. Executive chef Chanaphol Kijwongvaipaisan’s specialty sushi rolls are the progenies of a marriage between method and imagination. Playful and innovative, two creations worth ordering: the Boston rolls (salmon, cucumber, avocado, tobiko and mayonnaise) and the Screaming Tuna rolls (tuna, cucumber, chili sauce and scallions). More traditional offerings are also available, including nigiri, hosomaki and sashimi. Not overly fond of having your fish raw? Or not a fan of seafood in general? No worries, the extensive menu includes such dishes as pad thai, mango chicken, kalbi (marinated short ribs with vegetables) and New Zealand lamb chops.
But don’t forget to quench your thirst. Enigmatic bar manager Chris Hayes has managed to elude the typical, mundane drink offerings with his razor sharp palate, capricious experimentation and innate gift for mixology. Expect to find unique wines-like the Chilean gewürztraminer-and whimsical cocktails on the drink menu.
The dimly-lit dining room, with its clean lines and enormous fish tank, exudes an atmosphere of sparse sophistication, equally appropriate for an after-work gathering or cozy-yet-not-too-intimate first date. On Wednesdays and Thursdays, the ambience is enhanced by excellent live jazz (although, if you wish to carry a conversation at a normal voice level, request a table in the back). Fridays and Saturdays the dining room transforms into a nightclub with a growing crowd, undoubtedly due to the downtown location, sexy vibe and-most importantly-the $2-4 sushi specials from 11pm to 1am.
711 Underground Bistro and Bar
711 Boylston St., Boston
(617) 236-1777
Hours: M-W 11:30am-10pm, Th-Sa 11:30am-11pm, Su 4-10pm; bar open Tu-Sat until 2am
For entertainment schedule, see website.
www.711underground.com
