I love camping, but prices for some of the gear has gotten beyond the capability of my wallet. This season, I decided to make my own tent. The one I bought last year leaked in the rain and the zipper gave out on the first trip. My tent won’t win any beauty contest, but it will work in the rain.
You will need:
- PVC pipes – I recommend ¾” schedule 40 pipe
- In-line PVC connectors
- 3-way PVC connectors, two each
- PVC cement
- Hacksaw
- Sandpaper
- Waterproof, UV-protected fabric
- Screen fabric, if desired
- Tent zippers
- Elastic cording and hooks
- Tent stakes
- Small “S” hooks
- Heavy cording
- General sewing and measuring equipment
I drew a lot of inspiration from commercial tents. I don’t really need a lot of room if all I’m going to do is sleep inside the tent. My tent measured approximately 8′ long, 5′ wide and 4′ high. You can modify these plans to make any tent you wish, even if it is an igloo-style.
Step One:
I didn’t want to carry 8′ long poles around, so I cut the top pole into 3 equal sections. I cemented connectors to one end of each section only.
The 3-way connectors fit onto the ends of the 8′ top pole. The rails out to each side (total of 4), support the sides of the tent. Make these as long as you wish; keep in mind that wind may be a factor for you to deal with.
Step Two:
I carefully measured the spaces created by the sides, back, front and “floor space” under the frame.
I made a paper pattern and tied it with string to the frame to ensure the pattern sizes were correct. It is far easier to adjust a paper pattern than the final fabric.
I also made a pattern for the door in front. For windows, I cut them out at this point. I also planned for screened windows at the top of the frame for ventilation.
Step Three:
I found my fabric online after searching for waterproof outdoor fabric or tent fabric. Satisfied I had found a bargain, I ordered more than I needed. I can always find something to do with extra fabric. A duffle to carry the tent in, perhaps.
Step Four:
I sewed the basic tent pieces together using a true flat-felled seam. It is the strongest seam and will withstand wear and tear. I made ties from the fabric and attached them to the tent seams. These were tied to the PVC frame.
I cut out the windows and sewed the screen fabric in place. The window flaps were attached at one seam and I then inserted the zippers.
Step Five:
I inserted the zipper for the door opening. An extra strip of fabric was used to create a flashing for rain to bypass the zipper.
I tied the strips to the frame. The tent was coming along nicely.
Step Six:
To stake the tent to the ground, I took the legs off one end of the 3-way connector. I tied a weight to the cording and dropped it down the leg. I threaded the cord through the connector and tied a weight to a long end and dropped it down the other leg. I pulled the cord through so that it fell out both legs. I reconnected the pipes.
At the ends, I tied loops to drive the tent stakes through. I won’t need to untie them when I take the tent down. I did the same at the back of the tent.
If more stability is desired, 4-way connectors can be used to create a tent with more than two V-shaped frames.
Step Seven:
By now the tent will resemble those that come with shock poles, but these will be PVC. To create a rain cover, I used fabric from an inexpensive UV-protected, waterproof tarp. My rain cover comes within 6 inches of the ground, not an inch or two lower than the top vent screens like other tents.
The sides had casings to run elastic heavy-duty cording through. I attached loops of fabric to the side for smaller tent stakes to keep the rain cover in place. At the PVC poles, small “S” hooks hold the cover in place at the bottom of the poles.
The windows inside should be opened only from the inside. This makes life much easier. You can use a heavier fabric for the floor of the tent. I recommend using a heavy-duty tarp under the tent in order to preserve the tent material.
If you are using a blow-up airbed, place the valve near the tent door. This will allow you to blow it up manually (by mouth) much better than trying to do it against the back wall of the tent. Trust me.
One thing I noticed about my home made creation was that a lantern turned on inside could only be seen around the bottom of the tent past the rain cover and the front. This creates privacy for the user.
For use this winter, I’ll cut and attach some double-bubble foil insulation panels to the walls with hook and loop tape for insulation. I’ll see what temperatures I can use the tent in.
Knowing my friends who also camp, hunt, fish and so forth, my little tent will see more of the outdoors than I will. It just went out on a fishing trip without me. I’ll get some fresh fish for my trouble.
Source: The author has over 40 years experience of designing, sewing and crafting different items for indoor and outdoor use.
