On my way back from the grocery store, something caught my eye at a construction site. I noticed a workbench with a particular leg setup. Since it was hot and humid, my backpack was heavy, and there was a bench conveniently located in nearby shade, I decided to stop for a rest.
I love the “X” design in architecture and furniture design. Folding stools, tables and more have always fascinated me. It seems they’ve been around forever. Good design never goes out of style.
This table can be made from PVC or from inexpensive aluminum conduit. The PVC won’t get as hot to the touch on bright sunny day as the metal, but the metal is lighter and stronger.
The best thing about this table- it breaks down to travel comfortably in a duffel bag. Perfect for picnics or taking outside for breakfast coffee.
Read through all of the directions first.
You will need:
• 1 duffel bag, at least 36 inches long and 12 inches deep
• 4 PVC poles, 10 feet long ½ inch wide, schedule 40
• 8 each – ½ inch PVC tee connectors
• 2 each 3/8 inch carriage bolts
• 2 each 3/8 inch end nuts
• 6 each 3/8 inch washers
• Hacksaw with PVC blade
• Marker
• Measuring tape
• 1 sheet 2-by-4 of ¼ inch MDF
• 8 foot long furring strip or 8 ½ PVC clamps
• 1 tube Construction adhesive and caulk gun
• 1 sheet each- coarse, medium and fine sandpaper
• 8 each ½” PVC corner connectors
• Paint or seal, if desired
• Table saw and MDF blade or other power saw
• Clamps
• Double- sided tape
• Pliers
Make the table leg sets first:
1- Think of each table leg set as a double “X” with a single axle through both. Cut 8 pieces of PVC, each 26 inches long.
2- Mark the center of each piece and drill a 3/8 inch hole through the pipe.
3- Lay the PVC pieces in two groups of four. Each set will be one of the table supports.
4- The sequence for making the axle is easy. Thread onto one carriage bolt the following: washer, PVC pipe, washer, PVC pipe, washer and end cap nut.
5- Lay the two sets of pipes so that the end cap nuts are on the inside.
6- Begin with the pipes on the left leg set. Label the pipes 1, 2, 3 and four, starting with the bolt head end.
7- Dry fit tee connectors onto all pipes.
8- Lift pipes 1 and 3 together, and measure from edge corner connector to the edge of the tee and add 2 inches for insertion. Do the same for pipes 2 and 4. Cut the pieces of PVC and dry fit together. Do not glue anything yet.
9- For the right side leg set, number the pipes as before, beginning with the pipe on the outside. Number 4 pipe will be to the inside with the end cap nut on it. Repeat steps 6 through 9.
10- For the leg bottoms, dry fit corner connectors onto the legs with the insertion hole to the inside. Measure and cut a PVC piece as in step 9. Dry fit only.
11- Check the pieces to make sure the hinges work easily and the pipes are parallel to each other. Check to see all legs are equal length- if not, now is the time to adjust.
12- Cut four lengths of PVC, each 3 inches long. Insert into the tee connector of pipes 1 and 2 on each leg set.
13- Gluing may be set aside until the final stage, when making any adjustments.
14- Prime and glue the bottom pieces. Prime and glue the top tee connectors. Do not prime the extending end of the 3- inch piece of PVC. Allow 24 hours to dry.
15- Dry fit a corner connector to pipes 1 and 2 on each set. Do not glue yet.
16- Set the leg sets aside for now.
Make the tabletop
1- Mark the MDF sheet in four equal pieces along the 2-foot edge. Cut on the mark itself for four equal 2-foot long sections. Because of the width of the saw blade, the pieces will be slightly less than a foot wide.
2- Select a front and back for each piece and mark accordingly.
3- Lightly sand the cut edges with fine sandpaper.
4- Cut 8 pieces of furring strip, each 10 inches long. Sand smooth.
5- On the back of each piece, make a mark two inches from the end on each side.
6- To center the furring strips, measure and mark the center of each furring strip. Measure and mark the center of each MDF piece along the mark in step 5.
7- Place the furring strips to the outside of each 2- inch mark, matching the center marks. For the two inside tabletop pieces only- clamp and glue in place with construction glue. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours.
8- For the outside tabletop pieces, attach the furring strips with double-sided tape for now. This allows for adjustments to be made, if necessary.
9- Set the pieces aside for now.
Finish the frame:
We’ll begin with the left side, working towards the right.
1- Lay one of the table pieces upside down on the floor. (Prevent scratches to the table pieces by covering the area with newspaper or cardboard first.) The furring strips will be pointing up.
2- Set up the left leg set on the table piece with the cross pieces against the table on the inside of the furring strips and the bottom pieces in the air. Adjust the corner pieces to lay against the table piece flat.
3- Set up the other table pieces side by side. You can have a little space in between each tabletop piece, or lay them flush.
4- On the last piece, set up the right side leg set as you did in step 2.
5- Measure the distance between the outside corner connector edges and add 2 inches for insertion. Cut and insert, do not glue. Do this for both sides.
6- Measure the distance from the inside tee connectors and add 2 inches for insertion. Cut and insert, do not glue. Do this for both sides.
7- Set up the table, right side up. Make sure the table is level, the legs are sitting against the floor evenly, and the tabletop is secure on the frame. Adjustments to the furring strips on the outside tabletop pieces may be made easily as the tape is removable.
8- Once all adjustments have been made, clamp and glue the remaining furring strips in place with construction adhesive.
9- Make a mark on each corner piece and a corresponding mark on the 3-inch extension. When gluing, match these marks for the piece to lay flat. Only glue the corner piece to the extension piece.
10- Do not glue the side rails- these will be removable so the table can be broken down and placed in the duffel bag.
11- Finish the PVC and wood as desired.
Notes to consider:
• Never stand on a table or chair. This table is not designed to hold a human being at all. Do not sit on this table.
• The PVC can be painted or stained to suit your décor.
• Glue PVC clamps to the table pieces instead of using furring strips. When the table is upside down, mark the placement of the clamps and make sure the table rails are removable or joined easily before gluing in place.
• Make the table legs and rails from ½: inch aluminum conduit. Use metal epoxy to join the bottom leg connectors and the tees at the top. For the top corners and tees that will receive the rails, use connectors that tighten with screws and keep a screwdriver in the duffel bag for assembly.
• Use end caps at the bottom of the legs instead of corners and rail pieces.
• Do not try to drill holes in PVC pipe while holding with your hands. Find a jig that works well for you and use it. Plans abound on the internet and books. I took a length of 2-by-4 and cut it in half. I then cut both pieces at a 45- degree angle, and screwed them to a 1-by-4 scrap with the cuts forming a “V” groove. I clamp the pipe in place, and drill.
• Always wear the proper safety gear and follow the safety rules with any power tools.
• Instead of furring strips, use decorative molding. If the edge of the molding is less than 1 inch high, build it up by gluing together scraps of plywood or MDF.
• Keep a pair of pliers in the duffel bag whenever the carriage bolt needs to be adjusted.
This table will cost me less than $20 for all the materials at my local DIY store. It will be sturdy enough to hold any food I place on it while on the patio or camping. As with all portable tables, a high wind will cause problems. If I can solve than one for portable tables without suggesting concrete blocks or hurricane tie-downs, I’ll definitely share the answer.
