This article reviews several pairs of climbing shoes that would be good for beginning climbers. The following criteria had to be met for a shoe to be included in this review: Each shoe (with one exception) had to cost less than $100, because no newcomer to climbing should spend a great amount of money on a pair of shoes that will be quickly worn out as the beginner learns good footwork. Each shoe had to be reasonably comfortable (e.g. no severely down turned toes) because no beginning climber should start out feeling as though he or she is the victim of Chinese foot binding. Each shoe also had to perform reasonably well, because learning how to climb is hard enough without being handicapped by terrible shoes. Without further ado, hear are several pairs that would be a good choice for a first pair of climbing shoes. Try on as many as you can and find the right pair for you.
Evolv
Evolv is my favorite climbing shoe company. They have great customer service, make a great product, are affordable, and the shoes are manufactured in the United States. Most Evolv shoes are synthetic. This makes them vegan friendly, but it also means that the shoes will not stretch with use, so your shoes will be just as tight when you retire them as when you try them on in the store.
The Evolv Defy is a good all-around shoe. It is very soft, but still edges fairly well. It is excellent for smearing, and performs quite well on steep routes. The downside of the Defy is that it is all-black, and if you are climbing in the sun your feet will get hot and sweaty. The Defy is $85.
The Evolv Quest AF is a stiff, lace-up shoe that works very well for crack climbs, edging, and long, multi-pitch routes. It has a cozy nylon lining that increases the comfort level and a stiff midsole that provides a lot of support for your feet. As a bonus, one percent of all sales of the Quest AF will be donated to the Access Fund, to help keep climbing areas open. This good beginner climbing shoe retails for $95.
The Evolv Demorto is the one exception to this review’s rule of covering shoes under $100. The reason is that the Demorto is built on a symmetrical last to accommodate climbers with severe cases of Morton’s Toe. If your second toe is longer than your big toe, then the Demorto might be the best choice of climbing shoe for you, whether you are a beginner or not. Unlike most Evolv shoes, this one is made with leather, and may stretch a bit. The Demorto is a lace-up, all-around performer, and retails for $105.
Evolv makes a few shoes with a narrower last. They tend to be marketed towards women, but these shoes are good options for anyone with a narrow or low-volume foot. The Evolv Rockstar is an excellent beginner’s shoe. It is a moderately stiff lace-up shoe. It edges very well, but is a bit weaker on smearing. My first pair of climbing shoes was a pair of Rockstars, and I loved them. They are an excellent choice for crack climbing, multi-pitch, and vertical faces. The Rockstar retails for $89.
The Evolv Elektra is another excellent beginner’s shoe with a narrow last. They are softer than the Rockstars, and have a Velcro closure. They smear quite well, and are a better choice for steeper climbing than the Rockstar. The Elektra retails for $85.
For more information on Evolv shoes and products, check out www.evolvesports.com.
Mad Rock
Mad Rock makes good, inexpensive shoes. The knock on Mad Rocks has always been poor durability. They certainly are not the toughest shoes out there, but the Mad Rocks that I have had have held up reasonably well, and performed nicely.
The Mad Rock Flash is a Velcro closure shoe with a straight last. It is a good all-around shoe, although it is fairly soft, and smears better than it edges. My second pair of climbing shoes was a pair of Flashes, and I was quite fond of them. The Flash retails for $74.95.
The Onsight is very similar to the Flash, but designed for a narrower foot and sporting a more feminine color. It also lists for $74.95
The New Phoenix is a lace up shoe that is good for crack and multi-pitch climbing. This shoe is a redesign of one of Mad Rock’s most popular shoes. It costs $74.95.
The Banshee is a version of the Phoenix that is designed on a woman-specific last, although it should work fine for men with narrower feet. Like the Phoenix, it retails for #74.95.
The Mad Rock Frenzy is a good beginner shoe that is designed for crack climbing and long multi-pitch routes. This shoe goes for $89.95.
For more information on Mad Rock shoes, go to www.madrockclimbing.com.
5.10
Five Ten has been one of the leading climbing shoe manufacturers for many years. The Coyote Lace-Up shoe is an excellent choice for a first pair of climbing shoes. They are comfortable, versatile, and affordable. The Coyote is a fairly soft shoe, and does quite well in cracks and smearing on slabs. The Coyote is an unlined leather shoe, so your pair will stretch significantly with use. The Coyote lists for $85.
The Fox rock shoe is a Five Ten beginner shoe for women. The narrow fit would work well for men with narrow or low-volume feet, although they might not like the feminine design on the upper of the shoe. The Fox is a lace-up and retails for $85.
For more information on five ten, check out www.fiveten.com.
La Sportiva
La Sportiva makes some of the best, and most expensive, high performance rock shoes on the market, but the also make some good shoes for beginners. The Scorpion is one of these shoes. It is a lace-up, all-around shoe that delivers good performance and comfort for the price. The list price for the Scorpion is $75.
The Mantis is similar to the Scorpion, but has a Velcro closure instead of laces and a price tag of $80.
The Cliff rock shoe is designed to be comfortable. It has a roomier toe box than most shoes, and a midsole designed to give support to the arches of the feet. This is a good beginner shoe that shines on long, multi-pitch routes or for marathon gym sessions. It retails for $90.
For more information on La Sportiva’s shoes and other products, go to www.sportiva.com.
This is hardly an exhaustive review of beginner climbing shoes. Montrail makes several pairs, and there’s also Scarpa, FM Tech, Millet, Red Chili, and probably several other climbing shoe companies that I am forgetting. This review focused on brands and shoes that I am familiar with from my climbing and guiding. Your best bet for finding the right pair of shoes for you is to go to your local rock gym or outdoor specialty store, try on as many different pairs as you can, and then pick the ones that feel the best. Good luck and happy climbing.
