The following doghouse is inspired by a Ron Hazelton design. It is a common shape for doghouses, except for a few differences. This doghouse is insulated on all sides, has stronger side joints, and is built to withstand the elements. The dog also has two “rooms” for comfort.
The dimensions are based on the dog’s size, width, height and length.
You will need:
· Drill, bits and saw
· Measuring tape and markers
· Outdoor grade treated ¾” plywood
· Outdoor grade treated 3/8″ or ¼” plywood (use heavier wood for larger dogs)
· Outdoor grade treated 1-by-4’s
· Outdoor grade treated 2-by-4’s
· Galvanized screws and nails
· Galvanized piano hinge or 3-4 3″ hinges
· Roofing felt
· Shingles
·(the R-value chosen should match the area’s weather)
The amount of lumber, screws, nails, and so on depend on the size of the dog. Make a doghouse for each dog. Smaller dogs can comfortably live two or three to a doghouse made for larger dogs.
This doghouse has an inner partition, which allows the dog to move to another area out of the wind.
Step One:
Measure your dog’s height, length and width. Record these measurements on a piece of paper.
Add eleven inches to the dog’s height. This will be the front of the doghouse.
Add five inches to the dog’s height. This will be the back of the doghouse.
Add twenty inches to the dog’s length. This is the length of the doghouse.
Add fourteen inches to the dog’s length. This is the width of the doghouse.
Add three inches to the dog’s width. This is the width of the door.
Add two inches to the height of the dog’s back. This is the height of the door.
Step Two:
Cut the bottom of the doghouse to fit the dimensions in step one. Build a frame from 2-by-4’s, with two long boards at the front and back and short boards inside. Use butt joints. Place four short boards, two on each side and two evenly spaced in-between.
Attach the base to the frame with galvanized screws. Countersink so they don’t catch the dog’s fur.
Step Three:
Cut the sloping sides and the back, according to the measurements of step one.
Cut the front piece. Mark for the dog door and cut the opening out. Do not attach the front yet.
Cut two pieces each of 1-by-4’s the length and width of the floor and the wall’s height. Join with butt joints to form the “L” shape. Attach to the floor. The walls will attach to this corner bracing.
Cut two more braces, one for the back wall, located halfway between the walls, and the other on the front wall. Cut a brace for the inner partition and attach to the floor. The edges of the back, front and floor brace should match. The inner partition will attach to it.
Measure for the inner partition using the side walls as a guide. Remove the same width of the door from the back end. This allows the dog to move to the other room if the weather is bad.
Cut and attach 1-by-4 bracing around the inside top wall next to the roof.
With the roof down, mark around the inside of the doghouse on the underside of the roof. Measure for the front and mark back an equal distance for a 1-by-4.
Attach the front, and attach a 1-by-4 brace at the roof just like the other walls. Subtract the width of the front wall and attach 1-by-4 bracing to the underside of the roof. Do not drive the screws in all the way.
Close and open the roof, adjusting the braces so nothing catches.
Step Five:
Measure the space inside each area of 1-by-4. Cut the rigid foam insulation to fit in these spaces. The front, back, middle partition and roof will be insulated. The floor will be insulated as well.
Cut the ¼” or 3/8″ plywood to fit over the 1-by-4’s and the rigid foam. This will stop the dog from chewing on the insulation, and provide insulation all year long.
Step Six:
Attach the roofing felt to the roof, and install the shingles.
Prime and paint the doghouse.
Show your pet his or her new custom insulated house. Don’t be surprised if the initial reaction is “i-don’-wan-it.” The dog will go in if their favorite blanket, pillow, toys, etc. are placed in it.
