The Petzl Reverso 3 is a fantastic and versatile belay device. Is it the right belay device for you? Read on to find out.
The Device
The Petzl Reverso is a tube-style belay device that can also be used as a plaquette, or autoblock. A plaquette is a belay device that can be used to belay directly off of an anchor in an auto-blocking fashion while bringing another climber up. Plaquettes are fantastic belay/rappel devices for multi-pitch climbing and guiding due to their versatility and this auto-blocking function. This auto-blocking function also allows the Reverso to be used as an emergency ascender. The Reverso 3 is rated for half and twin ropes larger than 7.5 mm, and single ropes bigger than 8.9 mm. It weighs 77 g, and retails for about $35. Since it is being replaced with the new Reverso 4, however, you can find it on sale for under $25.
My Experience
I have used the Petzl Reverso 3 for guiding and personal climbing. If one word can sum up this belay device, that word is smooth. Whether playing slack out, taking it in, or lowering a second in auto-block mode, everything is smooth when using the Reverso 3. When belaying directly off the anchor, rope pulls more easily through the Reverso than any other plaquette that I have used. It is a bit easier to pull rope than with the Trango B-52, and significantly easier than with the ATC-Guide. Still, if you are going to be belaying directly off the anchor with ropes greater than 10 mm in diameter, your elbows will thank you if you use a Trango Cinch or Petzl Grigri instead.
It is hard to come up with downsides to the Reverso 3. It is a bit more expensive than comparable devices, but it is worth it since it is superior to them. It is also possible to get it cheaper since it is being replaced by the fourth generation of Reverso. While it is much more durable than the B-52, it is less durable than the ATC guide and rappelling wears down the friction grooves fairly quickly. The grooves are not all that important, though, and mine is still working fine with worn down grooves.
Belaying / Note of Caution
Belaying, whether with the Reverso 3 or any other device, is an important skill that must be carefully developed. Good belaying involves many factors, such as being vigilant, choosing a good stance, developing good habits, understanding fall dynamics, giving the proper amount of slack, making a catch appropriately dynamic, and having situational awareness so that you respond correctly when your climber falls. Belaying is beyond the scope of this article, and you should seek qualified instruction before holding someone’s life in your hands. You should never think that belaying with an auto-locking or locking-assist belay device makes it okay for you to be less attentive to your climber. Belaying with a plaquette is an advanced skill, and if you do not know how to lower your second with a plaquette you need to learn and practice on the ground before you use it up on the rock.
Bottom Line
The Petzl Reverso 3 is one of the best plaquettes in existence. It is my favored belay device for multi-pitch climbing. If you like multi-pitch climbing, then I suggest trying to get one cheap while it is being replaced with the Reverso 4, although I think the Reverso 4 will perform just as well while being even lighter.
More Climbing Gear
For a review of another versatile belay device that is similar to the Reverso, check out the Trango B-52. For reviews of other belay devices, check out the Trango Cinch here, the Petzl Grigri here, and the Click-Up here. To read reviews of climbing helmets and climbing shoes, as well as other fun articles, please go to my profile and scroll through. Be safe and have fun climbing!
