The Trango cinch is a locking-assist belay device. Is it any good? Is it the right belay device for you? Read on to find out.
The Device
The Trango Cinch weighs in at 182 grams, or 6.22 ounces. This belay device is available in 4 colors: orange, green, red, and grey. The Cinch is approved for belaying with ropes from 9.4 to 11 mm, and it carries a retail price of $84.95. The design of the Trango Cinch allows for rope slippage when used with small diameter ropes or in the case of a fall that creates a large force, adding a dynamic element to the belay system that could decrease peak loads on the belayer, climber, and gear.
My Experience
I like my Cinch very much. It is probably my favorite device for lead belaying. I can feed rope through the cinch more easily than any other belay device I have ever used. Another feature of the Cinch that I like is that the belay technique makes it very easy to keep the brake hand on the rope at all times. Lowering a climber is smooth and easy.
The Cinch is also quite adept for belaying a second directly off of the anchor. I used the cinch to belay directly off the anchor many times while guiding, and I found it to be smooth and easy to pull the rope through. While the first version of the cinch could be quite difficult to impossible to release if the second fell and was hanging on the rope in space, I never had that problem with the second generation. Still, it is a good idea to learn what to do just in case that happens.
The Cinch does have a few downsides. On rappel, I have found it to be less controlled and smooth than the Petzl Grigri. While the straight path that the rope runs through the device allows for exceptional rope feeding, that same lack of friction may make the device less forgiving if improper technique is used. The original version of the Cinch could lock up in a way that would prevent its lever plate from locking on the rope when paired with the Trango SuperFly Screwlock Carabiner. This does not happen with the second generation Cinch, or with any other carabiner I have combined with the first generation Cinch. A larger HMS-style carabiner is a better choice for a belay biner anyway, but it does bear mentioning.
Belaying With the Cinch
Belaying, whether with the Cinch or any other device, is an important skill that must be carefully developed. Good belaying involves many factors, such as being vigilant, choosing a good stance, developing good habits, understanding fall dynamics, giving the proper amount of slack, making a catch appropriately dynamic, and having situational awareness so that you respond correctly when your climber falls. Belaying is beyond the scope of this article, and you should seek qualified instruction before holding someone’s life in your hands. You should never think that belaying with an auto-locking or locking-assist belay device makes it okay for you to be less attentive to your climber.
Belaying with the Cinch is a bit different than with other devices, especially when it comes to lead belaying. The video here http://www.trango.com/belay_rappel/Cinch shows the proper technique for the Cinch, and you can also download the printed instructions. Used properly, the cinch is quite safe. Used improperly, it is not. Make sure you know how to use it properly. Never hold the silver release tab down to feed rope, as this will prevent the Cinch from locking.
Bottom Line
The Cinch is a great locking-assist belay device. The question most people will ask is whether it is better than the Petzl Grigri. The Cinch is lighter, costs less, and feeds rope more easily. The Grigri is a bit smoother on rappel and lower. Overall, I prefer the Cinch, but that might change when the next generation of the Grigri is released, which should be happening just about now.
More Climbing Gear
You can read a review of the Petzl Grigri here. To read reviews of climbing helmets, click here, here, and here. For reviews of climbing shoes, click here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. If you are new to climbing then you should should read this article to find out how to pick out a pair of climbing shoes, and then read this article for an overview of several good shoes for beginning climbers. Be safe, and have fun climbing!
