National Doughnut Day has been celebrated on the first Friday of June every year since 1938. It began as a fund raiser for the Chicago Salvation Army which, at that time, was working to assist the poor during the Great Depression.
Doughnut Day was also intended to honor the work of brave Salvation Army volunteers who, during W.W.I served doughnuts to hungry soldiers from huts, established in abandoned buildings, just behind the front lines.
Shortly after the United States entered the war in 1917, about 250 American Salvation Army volunteers went to France to provide baked goods, writing supplies, stamps and a clothes-mending service to the enlisted men near the front lines.
In August of that year it rained continuously for 36 days. The soldiers were hungry, tired, wet and homesick. It was difficult to provide freshly-baked goods from a hut near the battle front in inclement weather. Two of the Salvation Army “lassies”, Ensign Margaret Sheldon and Adjutant Helen Purviance had an inspired idea.
They poured oil into a steel helmet borrowed from one of the soldiers, heated it on an 18-inch stove and made dough with flour and other materials they had on hand. They rolled the dough with a used wine bottle and cut circles with a the edge of a baking powder tin. The ladies then used the end of a tube to cut out the doughnut holes and fried the confection in the helmet’s bubbling oil.
The soldiers loved them. Soon 9,000 doughnuts were being turned out with volunteers working around the clock. After the initial success, the Salvation Army lassies were making doughnuts wherever the war was being fought. Doughnuts were carried to comrades on the front lines. It was reported that pilots even dropped notes requesting doughnuts for their troops.
Following the war, the troops returned home bringing their taste for doughnuts with them, and the popularity of the deep-fried pastry spread across the continent. Today coffee shops where a customer can get a hot drink, a doughnut and spend a few minutes in thought or “shooting the breeze” with friends are as popular in North America as the pubs are in Britain.
The Salvation Army has also continued its association with doughnuts. Members continue to serve hot coffee or tea and doughnuts to firemen, rescue workers, disaster victims, anyone in need of comfort and sustenance.
The original name “doughnut” is often shortened to “donut” today.
Here is the original recipe for the wartime doughnuts.
Salvation Army Doughnut Recipe
7 1/2 cups sugar
3/4 cups lard
8 eggs
3 large cans evaporated milk
3 large cans water
18 cups flour
18 teaspoons baking powder
7 1/2 teaspoon salt
8 teaspoons nutmeg
Cream sugar and lard together. Beat eggs, add evaporated milk and water. Add liquid to creamed mixture. Mix baking powder, salt and nutmeg in a large sieve and sift into other mixture. Add enough flour to make a stiff dough. Roll and cut. Five pounds of lard are required to fry the doughnuts. Yield: approximately 250 doughnuts.
There is a legend that the term “doughboy” for members of the US infantry in W.W.I originated from their liking for doughnuts. This is not true. The term was in use in the Mexican-American War as early as 1846-47.
The next time you enjoy a doughnut with your coffee, thank the Salvation Army. Though they may not have invented the first one, no one is sure just who did, they are certainly responsible for the popularity this pastry enjoys today.
