What makes Spreewald so special? Speaking from my own experience in Summer 09, the two-hour boat ride I took there was one of the most relaxing two hours I have ever spent. I idled away several more peaceful hours wandering by foot and bicycle throughout the areas. It felt almost magical. Don’t get me wrong, I love the hustle and nightlife in Berlin. After several fun-packed days and nights there however, I was ready to unwind. To find such a peaceful halcyon experience so close to Berlin was just what the hang-over doctor ordered. (Hangover is optional.)
Officially designated a protected biosphere by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO). Spreewald was formed when the last ice age left behind 200 plus narrow water channels, totaling a distance of over 800 miles, crisscrossing an area of almost 200 square miles.
Isolated and protected from mainstream Germany by the wet topography, Slavic tribes of the Sorbs/Wends populated and flourished in the area as early at the 6th century. Today, according to UNESCO, over fifty thousand decedents of these Slavic people are recognized as an official minority by the German government and maintain their separate language, dress and traditions. Sorbish, the local language much closer to Polish or Czech than to German, is still proudly taught in the region’s public schools.
Learning to exploit the 800 miles of waterways (called “Fließe”) the native inhabitants scattered their homes and farms throughout the region, using small flat-bottomed boats called “punts” for virtually all their local transportation needs. Even today, many of the homes in the region are accessible only by boat. It is quite common to see these muscle-powered boats loaded with hay, farming supplies, and even cattle (on the way to/from pasturing) alongside the tourist punts gliding through the peaceful crystal clear waters.
Like the gondolas of Venice, the punts are propelled only by the muscle power of the ferrymen (and ferrywomen). People go about their daily lives depending upon these crisscrossing canals for virtually all their local transportation needs. Even the mail (Post) is delivered by punt.
Hints of Sorbian culture abound, such as the crossed wooden snake heads adorning the front gables of most houses. It is said these crossed snakes offer protection to the resident families in Sorbian mythology.
Also noticeable are the wooden submersible fish boxes in the front of most homes used for keeping the day’s catch fresh until preparation. These boxes are jokingly called “mother-in-law boxes”, into which a man would place his disrespectful mother-in-law until she learned to behave (or so local legend has it.)
A perfect destination for cost conscious travelers, the region offers easy affordability, easy accessibility, guided punt tours (including English), and a friendly colorful people. Tours range from two to ten hours at an average cost of about US$7 per hour per person.
Canoe, kayak, and bicycle rentals are also available at very reasonable prices for those who wish to tour around on their own.
The museum village Lehde near Lübbenau is worth a visit as displays splendid examples of Sorbian architecture and culture.
Gurkins (pickles) are the main agricultural product of the region. Dozens of family owned pickle booths pepper the area. Always a little skeptical, my initial thought was, “Pickles? How good could they be? After all, a pickle is pretty much a pickle… right”? Well, I’m delighted to report I had one of those, “Oh my god!… I totally get it now!” moments, as I began sampling the many varieties. Trust me on this one… Even if you have never considered yourself a “pickle person”, try out as many varieties as possible while you are there. You won’t be disappointed. Take your favorites with you in the small “Chinese takeout” type of boxes every vendor has available.
Dining options abound with many local restaurants from which you can choose. A partial list of local specialty recipes might include:
Pickled herring
Fried Carp pieces
Pike in special Spreewald sauce
Pike in horseradish sauce
Baked Rose-fish fillet
Stuffed beef olive
Goose with horseradish sauce
Beef with horseradish sauce
Roast duck with cucumber sauce
Be sure to try to local beer “Babben-Bier”.
While there are no large hotel chains in Spreewald (thank goodness), there are plenty of local hotels and guest houses to accommodate you. Camping is also available.
For English versions of the local tourist office website, visit http://www.spreewald-info.com/en/index.php
The Hotel Starick in Lehde also maintains a fine English language website: http://www.spreewald.com/en/home/
Travel by train from central Berlin is easy. The regional RE2 departs from Berlin’s Zoologischer Garten, Hauptbahnhof, Friedrichstraße, Alexanderplatz or Ostbahnhof hourly. The round-trip fare is approximately US$20 per person to either Lübben or Lübbenau (located about 13 km from each other). The tourist office in Lübben sells maps which include walking and biking routes.
If you happen to be driving from Berlin to Dresden, Spreewald makes a delightful one day stop-over on the way. Take the A113 south out of Berlin. At the “Schönefelder Kreuz” intersection, take the A13 south towards Dresden. Exit the A13 at either Lübben or Lübbenau. If you want an even quieter experience away from the tourists arriving by train, continue to the “Dreieck Spreewald” exit where the A13 junctions with the A15. Follow the A15 towards “Vetschau” where you will leave the A15 and continue to Burg (Spreewald).
One last thing… Spreewald is understandably a popular destination for local Berliners and Saxon residents, especially around German spring and summer holidays. Plan your visit accordingly by making reservations.
To read more about the UNESCO biosphere classification for Spreewald, please visit: http://www.unesco.org/mabdb/br/brdir/directory/biores.asp?mode=all&code;=GER+07
So would I recommend Spreewald? Absolutely! (Especially if you have a Berlin hangover.) Relax and enjoy!
