Just off of Mill Avenue, that artery of activity jutting through Tempe, Arizona, you will find Macayo’s Depot Cantina, a popular Mexican restaurant with outposts in Phoenix and Las Vegas. Convenience for Arizona State students and Tempe residents, plus a festive ambiance make the restaurant an appealing destination on a hot desert night. But as for the food?
I have been to Macayo’s three times. I would not describe any of those visits as mind-blowing experiences for my taste buds. Once seated, my fellow diners and I were greeted with the requisite basket of chips. The chips were crunchy, but lacked seasoning; a dip in the salsa was a must. The salsa was a high point – robust flavors, chunks of peppers and onions, and the dip was quickly replenished by our server when the bowl became empty.
My frozen margarita was tasty, too; even if it hadn’t been 110 degrees outside, I think that I still would have appreciated its slushy, tart, lime flavor. Be warned, though: as at any restaurant, the bar tender may have a heavy hand. My diners and I agreed that these margaritas were a little high on the tequila.
Our attentive server brought out the entrees promptly, given the Friday night crowd. My logic tells me that a Mexican restaurant should be able to do justice to the ever-popular enchilada, and so I put Macayo’s interpretation to the test. My enchilada arrived drowning in a bath of cheese and red sauce. The image looked a little like an Edward Munch painting – swirling, hot colors, with a lonely form trapped in the middle.
Even the shredded iceberg and chopped tomatoes, the plate’s sanctuary of fresh adornments, could not escape the quick sand of cheese and refried beans. I had no problem inhaling the plate’s contents, but this was not a plate that made me savor each bite and wistfully eat the last one. The enchilada was exactly what you’d expect of an enchilada, but not much more.
Entrees run anywhere from $8-20, depending on size and complexity. A standard burrito or enchilada, such as the one that I ordered, falls on the low end of the range. Macayo’s offers an extensive assortment of “light” menu items, including tempting fish and bean entrees, with the nutritional information printed for easy calorie calculations. Also, the restaurant offers Happy Hour, with misted outdoor seating and free buffet-style appetizers.
Ample, nearby parking, something of an anomaly in Tempe, certainly helps the restaurant’s cause. Macayo’s has a large lot, with additional parking across the street or behind the nearby railroad tracks. A new light rail route, passing directly by the restaurant, will ensure steady business for years to come, as will a growing (and hungry) Arizona State student population.
