Are you tired of feeling empty-handed or empty-headed when the waiter brings you a wine list? Wouldn’t it be nice to scan down the list and identify not just the wines that would let the waiter (and your dining companion) know that you can’t be fooled with, but which might result in a really enjoyable meal or evening?
Snobbishness aside, there’s not much to learning enough to make intelligent choices and enjoy yourself at the same time. You will find that the surprises in a bottle of “grape juice” can often far exceed expectations, and can lead to revelations that can add dimensions of pleasure and satisfaction to an evening that would otherwise have been only O.K.
First, decide what you like. Fruit? Sweetness? Gobs of grape, currant and other flavors that develop in the glass before you eyes and nose? The scents and tastes of subtle characteristics can amaze you. A single varietal can yield chocolate, mint, cedar, flint, melon, and limitless variations depending on the vineyard, the winemaker and the conditions under which the grapes matured.
Did you know that there are wines that begin as one thing and evolve in minutes into something else entirely? The same grape that yield dark purple fruit on the palate can taste like nuts, or roses as well.
First thing first.
The easiest way to start is to think about color.
Whites tend to be light and “short” on after-taste and flavor, although some of the fullest-bodied and most expensive wines in the world are made from white varietals. That doesn’t mean they’re bad; it’s just that the experience with most whites tends to be more fleeting and instantaneous than reds, which can take time to develop.
Reds can be “full forward,” with gobs of fruit that jump out at you from the glass, or more subdued, thatsit and “evolve” as they sit in the glass, an open bottle, or decanter.
There are amazing examples of ewach, and oddballs that don’t fit any ordinary description. That is the intriguing quality that brings wine drinkers back to try new revelations, or to find old friends, that manjes wine the oldest and most satisfying of all foods.
Now, for the nitty-gritty:
For whites, go with the basic chardonnay grape. Ask the server for his or her recommendations; that’s what they’re being paid to do, after all. More often than not, an experienced server has tasted the wines on the list and is not inclined to recommend anything other than his or her favorite. Don’t be afraid to set a price limit! Most restaurants will mark a wine up about 100% above the retail price, but this reflects the cost of storing and serving the wine at your convenience.
With a chardonnay, there are two basic types: the citrus-y, lighter drink that slips off the tongue and can leave a taste of melon, pineapple, or flint; and, the heavier, butter-filled glass that lingers long after you’ve swallowed. Both are best chilled and are typically at their best “young,” that is, within just a few years of the vintage.
Reds, on the other hand, are generally considered “heavier,” more complex, and full-bodied; although there are plenty of fantastic reds, such as Pinot Noir, that are not heavy on the palate at all, but bring nuanced flavors instead of an explosion of fruit and oak. Reds typically have aged for a few years so it is not unusual to have a vintage wine released 2, 3, or even 4 years after the date it was picked. Sometimes, “bottle age” is necessary for a red wine to develop to its fullest potential.
Again, in a restaurant don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation.
But what if you want make the decision?
Here’s a shorthand guide:
According to such authorities as Robert Parker and The Wine Spectator, California reds were best in 2003 and 2004 and should still be on the market, although supplies are dwindling and you may have to hunt a little. I’ve tasted several and I agree, leaning to the 2004s, myself. Wine hunting is great fun and can be a learning experience in itself. Most liquor stores and wine shops have at least one “expert” who can guide you.
These same authorities give high marks to the 2000 and 2005 French Rhones and Bordeaux. Unfortunately, the 2005s are so spectacular that they will cost you, if you can find them. Most top quality ’05s were bought as “futures” before they were even released to the market. Wine futures can be outstanding bargains if you are willing to buy without tasting and then wait 2 years for delivery. I’ve done it myself quite successfully. Wine I bought as a $26.00 “future” now sells for over $300.00 a bottle, if you can find it.
The whites of California have never been better than the 2004 Chardonnay, but it will difficult to find at this late date.
South American and Australian growers are producing extraordinary wines at very reasonable prices. They are exceptional wine values. A 2003 or 2004 Australian Shiraz (made from the syrah grape) will most likely please most red wine fans. Again, this may be a fleeting opportunity as these wines catch on in the marketplace. (One of the most expensive wines in the world is an Australian “Penfolds” shiraz)
If you see an Argentinean or Chilean malbec, you will likely be presently surprised. Some famous French and American vintners are now producing there, although native growers have done extremely well lately as well. If you see one on the wine list at dinner, go for it. You will not only enjoy the experience, you will be recognized as an innovator and insider.
French whites on your list will include Macon-Villages and Chambertin, although new varietals are being tried by many top producers. These are essentially chardonnay, but with character added by the growing region and climate, a combination known as “terroir. These growers vary from region to region, often only a few meters away from each other, but with subtle or sometimes striking differences, again depending on terroir and the grower. Once again, do not be afraid to ask a shop-keeper or your waiter, “What $20.00 white is best with bisque?” As with auto service, you will likely benefit from advice from someone who’s been there and done that; seen, tasted and sold the wines you have to choose from.
After dinner, try a glass of “port” wine. Originally from Portugal, the name has now become generic for many “fortified” red wines. These are wines that have a higher sugar and alcohol level and can develop for decades in the bottle. One of my favorites is an Australian port, made by Yalumba and called “Galway Pipe.” You will be amazed that a grape can be made to taste like that!
To gain confidence, you may want to consider the vintage rating systems developed by such authorities as “The Wine Advocate” (www.winespectator.com) or Robert Parker (www.robertparker.com).” Write down their top-rated vintages, compare them, and go hunting. Enjoy!
