For generations our mothers and grandmothers have known how to safely remove all sorts of stains from clothing, carpet, furniture, towels and bed linens without using harmful chemicals or detergents. Maybe they didn’t share their secrets or maybe they did and you have forgotten them because you developed a dependency on commercially available products.
I recently discovered that there have been, and still are, so many products in our favorite stores that are harmful and expensive compared to the simple home remedies our beloved caregivers used over the years to remove some of the craziest stains in our clothes, linens, hats and furniture. Not only will these tips give you powerful and effective stain removal techniques, you’ll save money doing it.
Whether the stain is fresh or laundered these easy-to-use, money-saving tips will teach you how to identify the stain and explain how-to remove them using basic household stain-fighters you most likely already have in your pantry or fridge.
Identifying Protein Stains
It is fairly easy to know if you are dealing with a protein stain or not. Stains are protein in nature when the source is animal-related. Infant formulas, blood, dairy products, eggs and meat juices are all examples of protein stains. All forms of bodily fluid — both animal and human alike –are sources of protein stains. Think of the gooey factor. If it is “icky” and makes you to want to delegate the clean-up chore to someone else, it’s most likely a protein stain. Not to worry. Keep your cool and you can handle it easily with these tips.
Understanding Protein Stains and Removal
Cool water, and plenty of it, is your first priority in combating protein stains. You can simply flush a protein stain away in most washable fabrics with plenty of cool water. If after a short period of time it appears as though the stain may not be fading completely, soak it in cold water. Time and heat are contributing factors for difficulties in stain removal, especially when proteins, such as blood, are concerned. Just as ground beef changes color when heated, protein stains will too. Heating proteins change their chemical structures. Exposing protein stains to acids, such as lemons or vinegar, will have a similar effect. Think of milk. It curdles when it comes into contact with lemon juice. Exceptions to this rule are feces and glue. Both of which need to be treated with heat. Warm water for feces; heat for glue so that it will harden enough to be peeled away.
Ultimately, treatment of protein stains vary, but the important thing to remember in treating them is stick to using neutral (Ph 7) to mildly alkaline stain-removal solutions, which digest proteins. Unseasoned meat tenderizer may be used to treat protein stains — when you tenderize meat, you’re using enzymes to pre-digest it. Plus, enzyme-based cleaners are available in most health-food stores and natural cleaning supply companies.
Here are removal techniques for everyday common protein stains:
Blood Stains
Blood stains on clothing or other washable fabrics can easily be treated. Promptly rinse with copious amounts cool water, then soak in cold salt water. Rub with mild soap, such as Ivory, on any remaining stain, rinse with cold water, then launder as usual once the stain is lifted. Remember to keep the stain(s) moist until they have been completely removed. Once blood dries, it is much more difficult to get out of the fabric because heat will set blood stains. Heat, such as ironing, must be avoided until the stain is removed completely.
If the blood stain is on white fabric, treat with hydrogen peroxide. Do not try this on non-white fabric or garments.
Blood on the upholstery from an “animal in heat” or your husband removed a scab from a work-related injury? No worries. Make a paste of cornstarch and cool water. Lightly rub the paste into the stain. Cover it completely. If possible, place the stained item into the sun to dry the paste quicker. Once dried, brush away the paste and repeat if necessary. No cornstarch in the pantry? Use the unseasoned meat tenderizer and cool water. Let stand for about 30 minutes. Brush away and sponge with cool water.
Mattresses occasionally fall victim to blood stains as well. Treat light stains with a thick paste of baking soda and water. Once dried, brush away. For heavier stains, stand the mattress upright by propping it against a wall or dresser — this will prevent the stain and/or the treatment from further penetrating into the fabric or padding. Mix 1/4 cup of salt with 2 cups of water, then begin by pressing an old towel or other thick cloth into the mattress just below the stain to catch any drippings from the cleaning process and sponge the area with the cold salt water. Once the stain is lifted, rinse with cold water and blot with clean cloths or paper towels. Allow the mattress to dry completely before placing it back on top of the box spring.
I know. You’re wondering if I have a solution for the carpet too. I do. Sponge the affected area with club soda or cold water until the stain is lifted. Or, sprinkle salt over the stain, then flush with cold water and blot thoroughly. You can also use the previously discussed technique of applying a paste of cold water and meat tenderizer. Wait for 30 minutes, then sponge it away.
Vomit
If the vomit is on clothing or other washable fabric, you’ll need to begin by quickly cleaning up any solid materials and flush the area with cool water. You’ll also need (and want) to make a solution of 1 teaspoon of clear diswashing liquid and 2 tablespoons of ammonia to 1 quart of warm water. Soak the soiled item in the solution for a minimum of 30 minutes, agitating it occasionally to assist with loosening the stain. From personal experience, you’ll want to do this often and for at least 1 hour or more. Afterwards, rinse with cool water. If you were successful and the stain (and smell) is gone, wash in warm water with 1/2 cup or so of borax added to the wash. If the garment is not silk or wool and the stain and/or odor is still persistent, soak it in an enzyme solution according to label instructions and launder again.
Maybe you were lucky enough to have missed your shirt, but vomited on the carpet. Scrape up the solids and blot up as much as possible. Immediately begin to sponge the area with cool water and act quickly to prevent the stomach acids from damaging the carpet. With clean paper towels or cloths, blot the affected area and sponge with more cool water. Blot again, then add 1 teaspoon of borax to 2 cups of warm water and sponge the area. Blot and rinse with clean water, then dry with paper towels to remove as much water as possible. If you have a portable fan, turn it and place it near the offending area.
Perspiration
Dissolve 4 tablespoons of salt in 1 quart of hot water and sponge stained areas or soak in warm water with 4 tablespoons of salt dissolved in it.
For fresh stains, rub with a bar of Ivory before laundering. You can also make a solution of 1 teaspoon of household ammonia in 2 cups of cold water and sponge it on fresh stains. Rinse well with cold water, then launder as usual. If the fabric is silk or wool DO NOT USE AMMONIA.
For perspiration stains on silk or wool, add 3/4 teaspoon of rosemary essential oil to 1/2 cup of hydrogen peroxide and pour onto a spray bottle. Shake well and spray on stains, occasionally shaking during use. Test for colorfastness on an inconspicuous part of the garment before using the mixture. Spray and saturate stains. Let set for 30 minutes.
Launder garment as usual after any of these treatments. Make sure that the stains are gone prior to applying heat to the garments — both dryer heat and ironing.
More from Associated Content
“Kitchen Safety is More Than Avoiding the Hot Burners
10 Nutrition Tips for Better Health”
Sources:
Personal Experience
Family Members
Natural Stain Removal Secrets” (2007), Deborah L. Martin
