How many times have you bought a cheap face wash or lotion from a department store and threw it away in less than a week? If you’ve read my other articles you’ll know how I feel about over the counter products. The cheaper they are, generally the more unsavory fillers are added to the products to make them cheap for mass production. Skin should feel soft, smooth, supple and hydrated, not dry, oily, bumpy and loose. So before I suggest your simple skin care regimen, first you need to determine your skin type.
Determining Your Skin Type
Oily/Acne Prone: If you have have an obvious surplus of pimples, white heads and/or black heads on your face, if you have a layer of oil on your face especially in the T-Zone by afternoon, even after washing your skin, or if your pores are enlarged on a regular basis you have oily skin and are acne prone.
Dry: If your skin looks dull, or grayish, lacks a subtle shine, flakes, peels, or if you notice small lines on your face (often mistaken for fine lines/wrinkles) from dehydration, even subtle redness you are the dry skin type.
Sensitive: If your skin turns red often after using products, feels itchy or if you feel burning like sensations often when using products, or if you burn easily in the sun, break out in hives easily you are most likely sensitive skin.
Aging: Aging skin is skin which presents with fine lines around the mouth, and eyes most predominately, age spots also called liver or sun spots are signs, additionally this type of skin will be drier, and lack elasticity.
You may be wondering where the normal skin type is located, however I have found in my years as a professional that about 95% of all woman fall into one of the four categories above, rarely in this day and age with chemicals, pollution and free radicals in the air do many woman have totally normal skin naturally. Also keep in mind that as seasons change and as you age or hormones change (such as during pregnancy) so to might your skin type, so you may need to change skin care regimens as your skin changes for best results.
Regimens
Oily/Acne Prone: OK so you need to clean up dirt, pull out acne causing bacteria, kill acne bacteria on the skin, and control oil and shine. So here are your steps:
1: Cleanse with an acne fighting cleanser and cleansing brush (keeping fingers off the face keeps oil and bacteria from your fingers away from face).Make sure you cleanse in circular motions on face and neck but avoid the eyes. Do this at night before bed and in the morning.
2: Every time that water touches your face you need to use a toner to balance the p.h. of your skin. Water is a 7 on the alkaline scale it is considered neutral, however it actually dehydrates the natural p.h. of skin which is 4.5-5.5. Disturbing this p.h balance on a regular basis can actually cause the oil glands to over produce oil therefore making your shine worse. Most over the counter toners actually have almost all alcohol in them they should be avoided. When checking ingredients you should search for an alcohol free toner or be sure alcohol is not within the first four ingredients on the back. So after you rinse off cleansers and masques apply toner with a cotton pad.
3: If acne, white heads or black heads are present on your face, use a facial scrub with small grains, bigger is not better in this instance, because the bigger the beads/grains the less they can penetrate pores and pull out acne and oil and the more damage it can potentially cause the outer layer of the skin. The smaller the grains the better penetration and least amount of potential scratching to your skin. You can do this once per day and if you like can actually mix your scrub with cleanser and do both in one step or you can do them separate, then rinse. If you only have a few pimples use as needed or twice a week, don’t over do it. You will notice a slight increase in break outs the first day or so, because you are speeding up the bodies natural processes of pushing out the acne bacteria, do not be alarmed this is where you will have to stay true to your skin care regimen and let it dissipate as it detoxifies your skin, this is also the point where many people ditch their skin care because they believe they are not working, be patient.
4: Twice a week use an acne fighting face masque. The best is one with sulfur in it ( a natural chemical that your skin and hair is made up of) sulfur naturally kills acne bacteria and can also gently eat away at certain types of buildup such as protein buildup and buildup from free radicals that can cause redness on skin. You may feel slight tingling with these types of masques do not be alarmed. Some people may feel an uncomfortable stinging if they use a masque right after using their scrub, in this case, use masque and scrub on different days.
5: Oil-Free moisturizer should be applied with a skincare brush or clean fingers. People who have oily skin have the misconception that they cannot or should not use moisturizer this is not true for two reasons. First oil is not moisture, there are only two ways to get water to the skin and that’s by drinking it and the body pushing it through and out your skin naturally or by applying moisture with p.h balancing ingredients onto the face. Second sometimes a lack of using moisturizers can actually make the oil glands over act as a way for the skin to attempt to moisturize it’s self. Oil-free moisturizers assist with a light layer of moisture. Don’t forget to drink a glass of water too.
6: Use a separate greasless/oil free eye moisturizer for your eyes, most have ingredients to fight dark circles, fine lines, and puffiness. Most moisturizers for the face are too heavy for the thin eye tissue and using them on the eyes can actually make them look puffy and unhealthy.
Dry Skin: If you have this skin type then you need moisture pretty badly, you need to reduce redness associated with dryness, you may want your skin to feel looser because it probably feels tight and uncomfortable, and you want a glow. So here’s your skin care regimen.
1: Use a moisturizing cleanser, creams that do not lather are better because they are soap less and less likely to have drying ingredients. Apply with facial brush or clean fingers, and apply in circular motions on face and neck avoiding the eyes. Rinse off. You should always cleanse at night before bed and in the morning if your skin feels dirty other wise you may skip this step in the morning.
2: Toner, you need to apply it every time water touches the face to balance p.h. Toners with ingredients such as cucumber are great for dry skin types. Avoid those with alcohol. Apply with a cotton pad.
3: If you have flaking or peeling skin (not associated with sunburn) then use a gentle facial scrub with small granules as needed to gently remove those dead skin cells. Do not use more than once per day and I recommend only as needed or twice per week. You may mix this scrub with your cleanser and do both in one step if you like.
4: Use a hydrating masque twice per week. Apply with a skincare brush or clean fingers. These masques are added moisture boosts, and often help with other skin issue like redness, and bacteria which can sometimes be present even in dry skin.
5: Apply a rich moisturizer at night before bed and in the morning even if you don’t cleanse in the morning Apply with a skincare brush, or clean fingers. Avoid eyes. This moisture is vital to brightening your skin and reducing dehydration lines. You should also drink lots of water throughout the day. You may see a slight shine to skin, this is actually great it’s healthy skin you may not be used to it because your skin used to be dull and matte. If it bothers you too much you can apply a sheer powder in those areas to make a matte appearance.
Sensitive Skin : You want products that clean and moisturize without irritating, itching and burning. You also want to avoid rashes and redness. I suggest you avoid products with floral extracts when possible they are most notorious for causing allergic reactions which are actually a different condition than sensitive skin. In fact many people who believe they have sensitive skin are actually experiencing allergic reactions to certain scents, dyes and ingredients. SO here is your skin care regimen.
1: Cleanse once per day at night -time, using a cleanser specifically designed for sensitive skin. It should be fragrance free (unscented is not the same). Most skin irritations are caused by fragrances and dyes. It will probably be a soap less cleanser. Use clean fingers to apply in circular motions and rinse.
2: Apply alcohol free toner each time water touches the face to balance skin p.h. Skipping this step especially for sensitive skin types can cause unwanted redness. Toners with aloe and chamomile are fantastic for sensitive skin. Apply with cotton pad.
3: If you have a need to remove unwanted dead skin cells from your face, you may not want to use scrubs they often cause irritation for sensitive skin types. Alternatively you may want to try a serum with glycol acid, it sound harsh but is actually quite gentle and uses a gentle chemical to remove dead skin cells rather than scrubbing them off.
4: Clay masques are great for sensitive skin, they tighten pores, and kill bacteria gently. Use twice per week to boost skin. Apply with skincare brush or clean fingers.
5: Apply a moisturizer with ingredients like aloe vera, at night and in the morning if desired. Use clean fingers and avoid the eyes. You will also want to look for fragrance free moisturizer.
6: Apply greasless or oil free eye cream to eyes. If you still have severe problems with eye creams just don’t apply one near eyes.
Aging Skin: You want skin to be more youthful, have more elasticity, be more supple, and you want to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and ages spots. So here is your skincare regimen.
1: Cleanse twice per day with an anti-aging cleansing formula. Since your skin is most likely dry too, use a milky soap less cleanser when possible. Apply with clean fingers or a facial brush and apply in circular motions on face and neck.
2: Tone. Apply toner with a cotton pad every time water touches the face. Lavender is great for aging skin.
3: To remove dead skin cells and promote cell turnover of new cells apply a glycolic acid serum to remove these cells gently. Using scrubs can tear the delicate skin of a mature woman. Apply as needed or once per day so long as skin irritation does not present.
4: During the day apply a moisturizer with Hyloraunic Acid, meant for prolonged day wear. These moisturizers are lighter but the hyroluranic acid actually pulls moisture to the surface of skin to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. AT night apply a night-time moisturizer, these are usually heavier and may look slightly greasy , but nigh time is when the cells naturally renew, and aging skin needs moisture to create more subtle skin. Avoid eye are.
5: During the day apply a skin lightening product, avoid dyes and bleaches. Professional brighteners/lighteners are more gentle and help reduce redness, freckles, age spots and colored scars. This should be applied before moisturizers if you choose to wear it. Do not apply at nigh time. Apply with clean fingers. Avoid eye area.
6: Apply a firming face masque twice per week to help your skin retain it’s elasticity. These masques also usually help with wrinkles and moisture. Apply with clean fingers, or a skin care brush. Remember to rinse off and follow with toner, and moisturizer.
7: Apply a wrinkle cream designed for eyes to the upper and lower eye are, they effectively reduce fine lines called crows feet and eye puffiness.
Caution: If you have severe allergic reactions to flowers, fruits, dyes and artificial scents you may need to be tested by an allergy specialist before using skin care products. If you have psoriasis which is a permanent medical condition, or roseacea a severe redness and inflammation of the skin around the cheeks and nose, or severe cystic acne, please consult a dermatologist before using any skin care products. If you have any conditions such as diabetes or severe acne and you are using prescription medications for these issues your skin may be think and may not be able to stand certain products, consult a doctor before choosing your products. If at any time using any skin care product you feel a painful burning, severe itching or see hives or redness appearing on the skin while using it, immediately remove it and seek medical treatment if it does not persist after removing. You could be experiencing an allergic reaction, or chemical burn.
Great Product Lines
1: Daylight Cosmetics
2: Bio Elements
3: Aveeno ( good for over the counter)
4: Merle Norman
Not So Great Product Lines
1: Proactive Solution ( Banned in Europe)
2: Noxema (extremely irritating and damaging to skin)
Don’t worry it’s not as confusing as it may seem at first after a few days of practice it should only take you five minutes to perform your skin care regimen. As always good luck.
