Magnolias have graced southern landscapes for years and the flowers have delightfully perfumed weddings with their sweet scent. This tree is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 7 through 10 although sometimes they can grow in zone 6 if they have protection from the winter winds.
They can grow to heights of 20 to 80 feet with a 20 to 60 foot spread. During the spring, the magnolia bursts into a profusion of flowers. The blooms come in a wide range of colors from white, pink, purple, and red colorful flowers depending on the type of magnolia you have. In the summer, the leaves are shiny green during the summer, but because they are deciduous, the leaves will drop when fall arrives. The magnolia grows to a height of 16 to 28 feet. They will grow in almost any soil variety of soils.
Instead of buying a magnolia tree at the local nursery, catalog, or online store, why not gather some seed and propagate your own. The seeds are found in large cone-like fruits called follicles.
One thing to keep in mind when you are harvesting the seed is this; if the tree is a hybrid, then the seeds will not produce a tree that looks like the parent. If you are unsure whether it is a hybrid magnolia there isn’t really any way to tell until the tree blooms, and that can take 15 years or longer.
Harvesting Seed
Wait until mid-September through October to harvest the berries when they are bright red and mature. The red seeds will be visible on the outside of the fruit. If you wait too long, the seedpods will open, spilling the seed onto the ground. What doesn’t spill will be eaten by squirrels, birds and other animals.
Cut the pods off the tree, placing them in a sack, bag, or a plastic container for easier carrying. If the pods happen to open, the seeds won’t become lost. When you are ready to remove the seeds, hold a seedpod over a bowl or tray, lined with paper towels. Give the pod a shake over the container or tap it against the container’s side and the seeds should fall. If they remain lodged in the seedpod, simply pick them out with your fingers. If they don’t remove easily, refrain from using force. Simply place them in a dark, cool area. In a day or two, the seeds will loosen as they ripen.
Soak the Seed
Separate the seeds from any foreign matter. Place the seeds in a bowl filled with warm water and leave the seeds to soak 12 hours to 3 days. If you find any seeds floating on top of the water, throw them away because they are no longer viable.
After the seeds have soaked, it will be easier to remove the softened red-orange coating that covers the seed. You can easily do this by squeezing the fruits between your thumb and finger. If the flesh does not come off this way, you can scrub the seeds against a scouring pad, the side of a brick, hardware cloth, or window screening. Once you have exposed the black seed, you need to remove the oily residue. This is easily done by washing the seeds in soapy water until they are no longer feel oily. Rinse the seeds in fresh water to remove all traces of soap. Lay the seeds on a paper towel lined tray and allow them to dry overnight.
Stratify the Seeds
Moisten a mixture of sand and peatmoss with water. You can use seed-starting mix or vermiculite. No matter which mixture you choose, it has to be moist, but not soggy. It should remind you of a wrung out wet sponge. Mix the seeds in with the mixture you choose and place this into a resealable plastic bag or container with a tight fitting lid. Stick this in the refrigerator for up to six months. Check it occasionally to make sure that the mixture stays moist. Mist the soil with water if it starts to dry out.
Preparing the Pots
In the spring, or when you are ready to plant, fill several cell packs with dampened well-draining potting soil. The best way to dampen the soil before filling the cell packs is to put the potting soil on a tarp-covered table. Then with a sprinkle can, I pour water over the soil’s surface. I use my hands to mix the soil, distributing the water evenly throughout. Only add a little water at a time, because you don’t want the soil to be soggy. You only want it moist.
Remove the seeds from the refrigerator. Dump the mixture on a tray lined with paper towels or a newspaper. As you pick out the seeds, sow one seed in the center of each cell. If you are planting in a seeding tray, space the seeds 2-inches apart. Push the seed into the soil to a depth of 1/2 inch and then cover the seed with soil. Gently firm the soil in place so the seed is in contact with the soil.
Cover the cell pack or seed tray with a sheet of clear plastic. Place the packs in a bright location, but do not put them in direct sunlight. If the sun shines on them, the plastic will make it too hot for the seeds to germinate. It is also a good idea to place the tray on a heat mat with the temperature set to 70° or 80°. Check the soil daily, misting to keep it evenly moist. Don’t allow the soil to dry out or it will compromise the germination of the magnolia seeds.
Remove the plastic cover when the seeds germinate. As the seedlings grow, continue to keep the soil evenly moist. Care and grow the seedlings until they have their second set of true leaves.
Transplanting
Transplant the magnolia trees into 3- or 4-inch pots. When they outgrow this pot, transplant them into a 6-inch pot. They will need to grow in a pot for one year. If your magnolia outgrows the 6-inch pot, transplant each one into a 10-inch pot before planting them in their permanent spot outdoors. When the weather is warm, take the plants outdoors, and place them in an area that receives partial sunlight. Continue to grow them in the pots for one year before transplanting them outdoors in their permanent location.
Sources:
The Scott Arboretum’s Garden Seeds: Magnolia Seed Harvesting
“American Horticultural Society A to Z Encyclopedia of Garden Plants”; Christopher Brickell; 2004
