Guatemala is often overlooked as a tourist destination, but it is an ideal vacation spot for Americans looking for an out-of-the-norm experience. Less dangerous than many of its Latin American neighbors, far cheaper to get to and travel in than Europe or Asia, Guatemala offers beautiful scenery, historic ruins, and an exotic cultural experience. While knowledge of Spanish is useful, especially in rural areas, you can easily get by with no more than “por favor” and “gracias.” It is hardly the cheapest nation to visit, but roundtrip airfare from the U.S. is reasonably priced and if you put a little effort in you can eat and sleep inexpensively, particularly if you are traveling in a group. The country is surprisingly diverse for its size, both in terms of geography and people, but nearly all of it is fascinating.
Now that you’re rushing to book tickets, here are six key tips to make the most of your time there.
1. Don’t bother with Guatemala City. Your plane will likely land in Guatemala’s capital, but there isn’t much there except crime and dirt. Even for those intrepid visitors who like to see a country at its dirtiest, ugliest, and realest, I would recommend skipping Guate. You can easily get an experience that is just as (if not more) valid and much less dangerous by crossing the bridge from Flores into Santa Elena or by wandering through almost any of Guatemala’s villages (tourist towns like Antigua, Panajachel and Flores are the exception, not the norm). Rather than linger, get a shuttle to Antigua, just half an hour away, or get on a bus to any of Guatemala’s other, more welcoming towns. (A shuttle must be arranged in advance and will run directly from the airport, but you’ll probably need to get a taxi to the bus station. Figure out in advance where you want to go and what bus lines offer service there at what time.) If it’s late, get a hotel near the airport and depart in the morning. The drive through the city to and from the airport was enough of a taste for me. The rest of the country is safer and far more interesting.
2. Don’t be TOO thrifty. It may be tempting to go for the absolute cheapest travel deals you see, but generally almost every reputable travel agent in tourist towns like Antigua and Panajachel will offer similar prices and any offer that is too much lower is likely a scam. You will pay for your shuttle reservation but the shuttle will likely never show up. In addition, though the chicken bus is the classic form of Latin American transportation, there are times when it makes more sense to splurge and travel first class instead. Around Guatemala City, for instance, you should avoid the city buses in favor of taxis, tourist shuttles, and the ‘luxury’ bus lines, simply for safety’s sake. In other parts of the country, however, you do not have to be quite as careful, particularly if you are traveling light.
3. Know when you can and should pay less. All of Guatemala’s major tourist towns offer a selection of fancy hotels and fine dining, but except for the occasional splurge, there’s no need to bother with all that. Hostels are far cheaper, while still safe and clean. Most have showers and running water, sometimes even hot. In many cases you may be able to secure a lockable room shared with only a few other travelers or (especially for groups) even a private room. Be sure to tour your room before you pay to make sure it is of acceptable quality. Hostel owners and employees may also be able to make travel reservations for you or recommend trustworthy agencies, as well as being a good source of information on food, shopping, and other things to do in their city. If you are in Antigua, I highly recommend staying at the Yellow House. It is within walking distance of the city center and is high quality for a very reasonable price.
4. Go to Tikal. The ruins there are incredible, testaments to Guatemala’s exotic Mayan history. You can arrange tour packages from Antigua that include airfare, but if you have an extra day, I found it cheaper and not especially inconvenient to simply take a bus to Flores and book a tour there. The trip is long, but for those who can sleep on moving vehicles, the overnight bus will allow you to make the trip without wasting too much of your touring time. Get a hostel in Flores, rather than paying the exorbitant prices charged by the hotels actually in Tikal. Booking a tour to Tikal is simple at any of Flores’s many tour companies. The sunrise tour is best, as the park is guaranteed to be wreathed with either mist or light, beautiful either way, and the crowds are at their smallest. You will want to pay a little extra for a guide who will describe the history of the city and tell you what you are viewing.
(Bonus tip: While in Flores, stop by Las Puertas for margaritas and a nice dinner. The restaurant is a slightly challenging to find, but well worth the hunt.)
5. Take a break in Rio Dulce. On the way from Antigua to Flores, stopping in this little riverside town is a good way to break up the long bus ride. Lake Izabel and Castillo de San Felipe are a short boat trip (or long-ish walk) upriver, while Livingston and the Caribbean Coast are a scenic hour and a half downstream. Occasionally you may be able to watch adventurous Guatemalans bungee jumping from the massive bridge that spans the river. Americans are still a bit of a novelty in the little town, and this is an area where some Spanish is useful, but
6. Do Not Miss: Lake Atitlan. No trip to Guatemala is complete without a visit to this breathtaking destination. Panajachel, the usual destination for shuttles from Antigua, is very touristy, but many of the other towns around the lake offer a more authentic view of Guatemalan life and culture. (Early mornings in Panajachel, while vendors are still setting up and before the tourists are out in droves, are actually quite interesting.) Boat trips around and across the lake are inexpensive and can be purchased at the waterfront at your preferred time of departure.
I hope you enjoy this wonderful little country as much as I did!
