Four Small Towns of Provence, France
Provence, France is one of the world’s most interesting regions in all of France. Actually the area is simply known as Provence with the eastern coastal area being known as the Riviera or Côte d’Azur. These regions are absolutely beautiful, have a very rich cultural heritage, and are quite diverse. You’ll find a distinctive cuisine which mixes the best of the ocean with the best of the mountains. It also has art museums and galleries, a glittering nightlife, and fabulous beaches. And, the light which is magnificent. In the 19th century, Provence’s light and landscapes attracted illustrious painters like van Gogh and Cézanne. The Greeks introduced vines to the region, and the Romans, fruit trees and an advanced infrastructure of forums, villas, amphitheatres and aqueducts. Marseille is the commercial capital of this region.
Provence has its own customs and language. The area is bordered on the north by the Dauphine, on the south by the Mediterranean, on the west by the Rhône and on the east by the Alps. Mid to early October, when the sun is still hot and the tourists are gone is an excellent time to visit Provence. The weather is often still very pleasant in November but many of the chefs and hoteliers close up to go on their own vacations during this time.
This famous region of France is celebrated for its delicious cuisine. While you’re there you will have ample opportunity to sample the local fare and you’ll probably learn which herbs make up the famed Herbes de Provence. Provence is also the most popular wine-growing region in France. The wines of Provence include Beaume de Venise, Châteauneuf du Pape and Vacqueryas, and its foods include Banon and Brousse cheese, garlic, olives, Bouillabaisse (seafood stew), Bourride (fish soup) and Oursins (sea urchins).
St-Rémy’s is a charming town and is well known as a home for artists, painters and musicians. For a time it was the home of Vincent Van Gogh and was the place where he created Starry Night. Because of its rich tradition, St-Rémy’s Musée de Alpilles, its art museum, is a marvelous place to spend a couple of hours. St-Rémy’s-de-Provence is equally well known for its local delicacies and parfumiers – check out Le Cave aux Fromages at Place Hillaire, which stocks many types of locally-made traditional cheeses and Le Bazar Saint-Remois at Rue de la Commune, that sells a large variety of locally made products. Two popular perfume shops are Florame in the Mirabeau Building and Parfumerie Esthetique Helois on Rue de la Commune. The town holds a number of festivals, sometimes more than one per month, all year long. These range from small, local events to large events which attract many visitors – they’re all great fun to attend.
Gordes is one of the best-known hilltop villages in Provence and is perched atop cliffs. It’s east of Avignon, and is called “le plus beau village de France.” Its setting is bucolic, between the Coulon Valley and the Vaucluse plateau. Today, it’s a town of silk painters, weavers, and potters and you’ll discover many interesting art galleries and boutiques. There are also open air markets where you can buy many of the products produced here – go early because most close by noon. There are also nearby lavender fields which start to bloom in June and is harvested in July.
The little town of St. Saturnin-lès-Apt in Luberon is wonderful, a favorite because it isn’t a tourist trap but instead a lovely old town with history and friendly people. It’s nestled along the base of a long, low cliff, with the ruins of a castle above on the high end and an old windmill at the opther end. Here you can stroll down the narrow – and carless – streets after dinner. The older locals sitting and visiting in the town’s tiny square, call out a cheerful “Bon Soir” as you walk by. A quaint B & B by the name of Le Mas Perreal sits just outside of the village amidst 17 acres of vineyards and cherry orchards. It is a centuries old farmhouse that has been painstakingly restored with magnificent, panoramic views in all directions. Their luxurious rooms are decorated are inspired by the colors of Provence. This little gem is also a member of the prestigious Small Hotels of the World. In the village itself, there is a little eatery, called La Restanque, where the food is wonderful along with excellent prices. It was spotlessly clean and non-smoking. With the oak-forested hillsides, this is obviously a truffle region and the village also has a working olive-oil mill.
Lastly, there is Roquebrune, a medieval hill village southwest of Menton and probably the finest along the Côte d’Azur. It has been extensively restored, and not even the touristy shops spoil its charm. Steep stairways and alleys lead up to its feudal castle crowning the village. The feudal castle, dating back to the 10th century, is the oldest in France and the only Carolingian castle left standing. Be sure to visit Rue Moncollet, flanked by houses from the Middle Ages. The luxury of the area’s many villas, some resembling palaces, remind us that statesmen, royalty, writers, and artists, including Coco Chanel and Winston Churchill, came to Roquebrune looking for inspiration and relaxation.
There are many more interesting little towns throughout Provence, some well known and others small and off the beaten path.
Bon Voyage!
