There are many ways to see Colorado, and many spectacular roads to travel. I by no means have even come close to exploring the entire state, and probably will never get the chance to travel all the roads, but I have made a hobby, or maybe even a habit, of trying my best to do both. The five roads listed below may not be the absolute best out there, but they are some of my very favorites. Although these are not 4 wheel drive only roads (all are accessible with a mid-sized pick-up truck, in most cases any vehicle can pass. I would recommend having 4 wheel drive on some of the roads though) they are back roads, and only two are paved. Make sure you are comfortable driving on not so perfect, narrow roads before heading out.
So without further ado, and in no particular order, my nominations for the best of Colorado’s back roads…
1. Skyline Drive
One of the great unknowns. It took me three road trips to find this one, and it was only with luck that I did- looking over my shoulder at the signs for east bound traffic as we headed west. Anyway, this is a very short stretch of paved road that is basically a miniature bypass of Co Hwy 50 just west of Canon City. Not so much to get you anywhere you can’t get to more quickly, but for the thrill ride that it is.
This is a completely novelty drive. Pretty much anywhere you are coming from, unless you just happen to be heading east on Hwy 50 and see the exit, it is out of your way to get to, but it is worth it. As far as directions, all I can tell you is go west past the Royal Gorge and turn around as soon as you can so you’re headed east on Hwy 50 and look for the sign. At least that’s what I always tell my driver.. Just kidding, but that is what you have to do.
If you find it, you’re in for a real treat! It is a one way road over a natural dike. A dike, in geological terms, is a rock formed by volcanic action deep below the earth many years ago, there are many running through the area. Erosion has partially exposed some of them allowing us to not only gaze upon their splendor, but in this case, drive atop one.
It is a very short trip once you find it, but it is awesome. As long as no one is behind you and for some strange reason in a hurry, stop at anytime and take plenty of photos. Priceless…..
2. Oh My God Road
This is not just a clever name, I would rank this the “sketchy-est” road on the list. The original road connecting Idaho Springs to central city, Oh My God Road is a 9 mile long dirt road that twists and turns through Virginia Canyon. The road is no longer very well maintained (thanks to the new road connecting the two towns) and has steep drop offs on either side. Be prepared, and take it slow. This is 9 miles that could take you an hour to navigate, but it is pretty amazing.
I recommend only taking this road only if you have 4 wheel drive. I’ve seen all types of vehicles driving through the canyon, but we have had to use our 4 wheel drive a couple times when we unexpectedly ran into some very sloppy muddy parts. Even on nice sunny days, you can run into spots like this left over from past rains. A very exhilarating drive, but be sure to remain cautious.
To get to Idaho Springs, take I-70 west from Denver past Golden and Floyd Hill. Finding Oh My God Road can be a little tricky, especially from the Central City side, because of the lack of directional signs. There are a few signs on the Idaho Springs side, and the road is considered one of Colorado’s “scenic drives” so you can find it on most maps (also called Rd. 279). If you still can’t find it, stop and ask, most locals can tell you exactly where it is.
3. Shelf Road / Phantom Canyon Road
Although these are two different roads, they are very similar as they basically get you to and from the same places running parallel to each other. Shelf Road runs from Cripple Creek to Canon City, and Phantom Canyon Road runs from Hwy. 50 just east of Canon City to Victor (just east of Cripple Creek). I like to take this drive as kind of a loop.
Both roads are pretty narrow, but also, for the most part, pretty well maintained. These roads are considered part of the Gold Belt Tour, also one of Colorado’s “scenic drives”. This particular drive is steeped in history which can be as interesting as the scenery you’ll experience is beautiful. Keep your eyes out for mountain goats in the area. It’s pretty amazing how they “cling” to the rock cliffs, as if they are defying gravity.
To get to Cripple Creek from Denver, take I-25 south to Colorado Springs than head west on Hwy. 24. When you get to Hwy. 67, head south. When you get to Cripple Creek, continue driving until you get through town. Shelf Road (Rd. 88) begins just south of town. When you pop out the other side, head east on Hwy. 50 to Phantom Canyon Road (Rd. 67) and head back north. This time when you reach the end, you’ll be in Victor. Continue on 67 until you’re back at Cripple Creek and than just backtrack your way home.
4.Cordova Pass
Talk about a fantastic drive! This one is quite far from the Denver metro area, actually its closer to the New Mexico border than the city, but if you get the opportunity to take this road, do it… I LOVE this drive. However, you can only take this drive from about May or June through September because when it starts to snow, this road gets buried for the season. The elevation and type of road it is makes it impossible to maintain during the harsh winter months.
This road runs from Aguilar (a small town just north of Trinidad), over Cordova Pass (11,743′ above sea level), through to Hwy. 12 at Cucharas Pass (9941′ above sea level). The first part of the drive going west from I-25 / Aguilar, runs fairly straight with amazing scenery all around. The road actually runs right through a couple exposed dikes (a type of volcanic formation) which are abundant in the area. As you approach and descend from the pass, the road becomes quite a bit more curvy, but nothing a decent driver can’t handle.
Once over the pass, you will be on Hwy. 12. Head north and you’ll come to the town of Cuchara. This is the home of the “world famous” (that’s what they say) Dog Bar. This used to be a really cool place to stop because the town of Cuchara is pretty much run by dogs, which people let run free to help keep away the many black bears in the area, and they (the dogs) were allowed to come and go from the bar as they pleased, a kind of novelty for out-of-towners. Now, however, due to different laws along with, of course, the Health Department, this is no longer the case, so now its just another bar / restaurant.
Continue north on Hwy. 12 until you reach Hwy. 165 where you’ll head east back to I-25 northbound back to Denver.
5. The South and North Rim drives- Black Canyon of the Gunnison River
These roads aren’t necessarily considered back-roads, but, especially the North Rim Road, they are a bit out of the way and take you along the edge of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River, which is one of the most spectacular sights in the state of Colorado.
Although it is possible, I do not suggest trying both of these roads on the same day. One reason is that the only way from one side of the canyon to the other is to drive completely around it, which takes quite some time. The other is there is so much to see. Both roads offer plenty of places to pull over and take your choice of many short trails, all of which lead to fantastic views of the canyon. You’ll want to stop at as many of these as possible, but be sure to catch the Painted Wall on the South Rim drive. Also, take some binoculars, as this area is habitat to many types of birds.
To get to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River, head west on Hwy. 50 out of Gunnison to Route 347 which will take you directly into the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Here you will be able to pick up a map and informational brochure, as well as pay the entrance fee, which upon my last visit, was good for three days.
I truly enjoy experiencing Colorado in as many ways as I possibly can and love to share its beauty with as many other people as I can. I hope you get a chance to try one or all of these back roads and may you enjoy them as much as I have!
