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How to Sew a One-Shoulder Dress

How to Sew, Seams

Lady, rev up your engines. Make that your sewing machine motor. Your goal? Creating a one-shouldered dress inspired by a couple of photos you saw of Hayden Panettiere and Rachel Bilson on publicity tours. Sure, you could snare a hot little number at a local boutique and max out your plastic, but what would Mom say if she knew you were wasting your remarkable sewing skills on a pricey frock that’s downright unoriginal? Doing it yourself has financial benefits — like generating enough savings to grab peep-toe stilettos to match your smokin’ dress.

1. Find the perfect pattern for your one-shouldered dress (www.sewingpatterns.com/). The right pattern is critical to winding up with a great fit. Perhaps you plan to make your garment of body hugging stretch knit or you’re going for silky, diaphanous fabrics. Many patterns are designed specifically for certain textiles, so when you pattern shop via the Internet or flip through Vogue, Simplicity, McCalls and Butterick pattern books at your local sewing emporium, don’t just grab the first one-shoulder dress pattern that strikes your fancy.

2. Use your pattern instructions as a guide for purchasing fabric, notions, a zipper and other essentials. Embellishments like sequins, lace and faux gemstones are your domain, but following the pattern maker’s notions list can mean the difference between a fun sewing experience and a session of ripped and re-sewn seams.

3. Once you’ve filled your shopping bag, head home, smooth out the fabric and pin all pattern pieces to the cloth, making certain arrows on the tissue align with the fabric’s biases. Picky about the shoulder you want exposed? Flip the pattern pieces to switch sides. Use pinking shears to cut out sections of the garment to keep unraveling to a minimum.

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4. Follow the step-by-step instructions on your pattern’s directions sheet. Stitch the side seams of your one-shoulder dress and press them open with an iron before inserting a zipper (if your pattern calls for one). Connecting the shoulder seams is usually the next step before you tackle the facings. It’s a good idea to stop occasionally to press out seams. Need more help constructing your garment? Visit websites like www.allfreesewing.com/Video-Tutorials/Video-How-to-Make-a-One-Shoulder-Dress.

5. Attach the facing sections and pin then them to the bodice along the bias lines that sweep up the front and down the back of your one-shoulder dress. Overstitching the facing helps multiple layers of fabric to lie flat so you don’t have to worry about the facings popping up just as you’re about to walk into a party. Finally, tack down the facings at the shoulder and side seams by hand and complete the basics by adding a hem.

6. Add trim. Whether you’re going for glam and have the patience to sew rows of sequins to your dress or you’re using those Hayden/Rachel inspirations to attach lace to your one-shouldered stunner, take your time and enjoy the process of handcrafting final details that separate your awesome creation from everyone else’s. Give your dress a final pressing and take a photo. Your Mom deserves the chance to see that you haven’t forgotten her instructions!