The Andes mountains were the site of the major human settements in the era of the Incas in South America, where a large part of the population lived at cities between 2,000 and 4,000 meters above sea level. Now marking some of the essential sites to visit for those adventurous travellers traversing what is called the “gringo trail”, in Bolivia, Ecuador and Peru, these high altitude cities prove to be a challenge for those of us born and bred close to sea level. Any traveller planning to visit La Paz, Bolivia (3,650 meters above sea level), Lake Titicaca (3,812 meters), Cuzco, Peru (3,500 meters) or Quito, Ecuador (2,850 meters) must bear in mind the effects that altitude sickness can have on your trip and take the necessary precautions before heading out for a trek in the mountains.
Altitude Sickness is caused by the reduction in air pressure at altitudes over 2,400 meters above sea level, and usually affects people who are accustomed to living at low altitudes, whose bodies are not acclimatized to such conditions. The inhabitants of high altitude cities have developed over many centuries bodies which are favorable to their geographical condition, characterized by larger lungs and shorter limbs, facilitating the flow of blood to all parts of the body despite the low pressure and level of oxygen. For travellers who are used to living near sea level, the shock to the system caused by the low air pressure normally causes unfavorable symptoms such as a headache, dizziness, shortness of breath, nauseaus, slowed digestion, and overall fatigue.
In my case, the trip from Buenos Aires, Argentina to La Paz, Bolivia resulted in a severe headache on the first day, followed by fatigue and shortness of breath in the following days. While symptoms vary, it is important to take precautions on the first day or two in order to facilitate a quick recovery and not ruin the rest of your trip. Although it is difficult for most travellers to arrive in a new city and hide out in a hotel room, on the first day this is highly advisable, as any exertion hightens the symptoms. According to locals, the best remedy for altitude sickness, “soroche”, is plenty of rest and coca tea. Infusions of the coca leaf have been used traditionally for centuries in order to combat altitude sickness and the fatigue caused by working in the mountains. The tea has a mild stimulant effect and helps to allieve shortness of breath and an upset stomach. Although highly stigmatized by the extremely processed form of this plant into cocaine, the unprocessed version remains legal in the Andean countries, and is fairly easy to buy in markets.
After the initial symptoms of altitude sickness wane, take another tip from the locals, who recommend acclimitazation “paso a paso”, taking slow walks around town before tackling any steep mountain passes, or the highly inclined streets of la Paz. It is also advisable to eat a bit less than usual, as the digestive process is slower in high altitudes, leading to a constant sensation of fullness or upset stomach, and to reduce alcohol consumption initially, as the effects of alcohol go right to your head in the high altitudes!
While it is somewhat of a torture for travellers who are used to tacking a new city upon arrival to slow down for a few days, it is well worth it. Once you are used to the altitude and ready to start trekking in the Andes, you will find incredible physical, mental and spiritual rewards.
