Portugal is not a country that comes up very often when avid hikers and trekkers talk about where to go stretch their legs. That is a pity, because while hiking is not a popular pastime in Portuguese culture, the country itself is home to some truly breathtaking scenery. This makes for excellent hikes, some of which can be had very close to the capital of Lisbon.
Due south of Lisbon is the Setubal Peninsula (pronounced “Stu-ball” by the Portuguese). While the area is best known for its ugly industrial port, that occupies only a small part of the region. Much of the peninsula is made up of pasturage, vineyards, and the 42.5 square miles of Arrabida Natural Park. The park is situated around Mount Arrabida, and there are two day hike trails situated on the landward and seaward sides of the mountain.
Vila Nogueira de Azeitao
This is the landward hike. The trail head is in the village, Vila Nogueira de Azeitao. The village itself is worthy of a visit, as it is home to the Jose Maria de Fonseca winery and the distinctly Portuguese Azeitao cheese. Azeitao, a cheese made of sheep’s milk and cured wrapped in thistle leaves, is famous for its creamy texture and strong flavor. Be sure to sample both some cheese and wine after the hike. Down the road from the de Fonseca winery is Rua Helena da Conceicao dos Santos e Silva. This is the start of the trail.
The suburban road climbs up to a low ridge, which has sufficient elevation to provide a lovely view of southern Lisbon and the Tagus on a clear day. It quickly turns from paved road to gravel road, undulating through rolling countryside houses and small farms. Mount Arrabida dominates the skyline as the trail continues inward for roughly 4 km, where it reaches the Parque de Campismo (camping park).
Once at the campground, hikers have a choice: turn around and go back the way they came, or press on. The trail beyond this point continues for a further 4 to 5 km before joining an asphalt road, which loops around back to the village after a further 4 km. Off the trail are several logging roads, one of which is reputed to lead back directly to the village and cut a full 5 km off the journey (at the time of publication, the author has not discovered which logging road led back into the village, if any).
Portinho de Arrabia
This is the seaward hike, and begins at the Convento de Arrabida. This beautiful late medieval convent with marvelous sea views is reached by a windy mountain road that takes one right over the spine of Mount Arrabida. The trail head is several dozen yards down from the convent’s front gate, running down hill. The trail down the lower slopes of the mountain was partly washed out in a landslide several years ago, which makes it steep, rugged, and it is necessary to do some light climbing in places. However, it is densely vegetated, offering a great deal of cover. There are a handful of excellent seaward overlook points that are lined with fragrant wild rosemary bushes.
Once the trail reaches the bottom, it comes out onto a T junction in the coast road. Note the location of the trail, because it will be hard to find again for anyone who does not know exactly where it is. To continue on, take the road that leads toward the sea; the signposts will indicate “Portinho de Arrabida” and the Oceanographic Museum.
About 1 km down this road, a large white orphanage that resembles a budget hotel will be on the left side of the road. Across from this is a concrete path that leads directly down to a sea cave. This area offers a few small landings that are great for snorkelers and fishing. The cave itself has a large mouth open to the sea, and makes for a good picnic spot.
The main road continues on to the harbor area and beach. At the far end of the beach are the ruins of a Roman salt fish works. There are a number of seafood restaurants there, but if you intend to have lunch here, leave plenty of time for digestion. The climb back up to the convent will be strenuous in places, and won’t be pleasant on a full belly. One way, the hike is 7 km.
This pair of trails offers scenic walks, good exercise, beach time, and the gastronomic delights of Portugal all rolled into one. Situated so close to Lisbon, they can be attached to a holiday in the Portuguese capital by anyone willing to rent a car.
Sources: Personal Experience
