If you happen to be visiting southern Italy and Naples in the future, Frommer’s has one bit of advice about driving in Naples: don’t. That advice might not always be practical, you may have to stay in Naples for an extended period of time, your business is renting a car for you, or you are staying with your distant aunt in the countryside. Perhaps you like to live just a little bit on the wild side. If you want to drive in Naples, there are a few things that you should know first.
Neapolitans Drive Offensively
In American driver’s education, we are taught defensive driving skills. Watch out for the person in front you, leave plenty of space when merging, and be courteous on the road. In Naples, that’s not the case. To a new observer to the roads of Southern Italy, the streets look like complete chaos. Drivers will cut you off, get right on your bumper, and don’t exactly leave a lot of room when they merge. Surprisingly, you don’t see more accidents in Italy than in America. Neapolitans take their driver’s education seriously, and undergo more rigorous instruction than we do in America. In Naples, drivers expect that someone can cut them off at any moment, and are prepared to slow down. If you plan on driving in Naples, don’t expect the other drivers to follow the traditional rules of the road.
Road Signs are only Suggestions
In America, you have to stop at red lights, even if it is in the middle of the night and there is no traffic for miles. In Naples, stop lights are really only suggestions. You will often see drivers slowing down, looking both ways, and crossing a street through a red light if there is not any traffic. Speed limit signs are often ignored as well. A driver makes the wrong turn off the freeway? No problem, just back up and get back on. During times of peak traffic, Neapolitans will even make their own lanes on the freeway.
One important note about road signs. It is your responsibility to follow the rules of the road. While many people ignore a lot of these rules, if they are breaking a rule and get into an accident as a result, they will be the ones at fault. You don’t want to end up in an Italian traffic court. Also, be aware that once you drive north of Naples and approach Rome, drivers do follow road signs, so make sure that you do too.
Since I last lived in Italy, there were a few changes made to driving. The speed limits have changed, and traffic cameras are being added to many roads. From what I have read, most of the cameras are located in northern Italy, but be aware that traffic cameras could be added at any time, so it’s best to watch what the locals are doing and take their lead.
The Carabinieri and Legal Matters
The Carabinieri are the police that you are most likely to run into while you are driving in Naples. They often carry a big sign that looks like a lollipop. If they are waving it at you, make sure that you stop. They have been known to shoot at people in the past if they do not stop.
In order to drive in Italy, you will need an International Driving Permit (and a legal license issued from your home state too). The international driving permit is a driver’s license translation. Many rental car companies will check to see if you have one when renting a car.
Driving in Naples is different than driving in the United States, but don’t panic if you have to do it. Just pay very close attention to what you are doing (do not read or put makeup on while driving in Italy), watch the locals, and be sure to stop if the Carabinieri ask you to.
Sources:
Personal experience living in Italy, 2000-2003.
Kenny, Pauline. “Driving In Italy”. Slowtravel.com. http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/driving/introduction.htm
