What makes a Uromastyx a good pet?
A Uromastyx makes a wonderful pet. They are gentle, loveable creatures that give years of enjoyment to their owners.
There are two things in particular about the Uromastyx which led me to choose one as a pet. The first is that they are primarily vegetarians. Being the over-sensitive animal lover that I am, I had a hard time fathoming feeding one of God’s creatures to another. So, I sought out a vegetarian. The other thing that I liked about the Uromastyx was its size. I had an overwhelming fear of getting a small, quick lizard who might escape, never to be found, while I was handling it. The Uromastyx is just the right size, most captive species ranging from about 10-16 inches. They are also girthy lizards; you can handle them without feeling like you’re going to hurt them.
Uromastyx housing
Uromastyx need a large enclosure, the bigger the better! A 4’x2’x2′ is the smallest you should go for a single or a pair of Uromastyx. It needs to be well ventilated, a front opening, mesh top terrarium works great.
Substrate and furnishings
Fully ingestible, non-impacting sand is good. At your local pet store, you can find edible, even calcium-fortified sand substrate. Uromastyx won’t typically eat the sand on purpose, but occasionally some may coat their food.
You should place a large flat stone in their basking area. They love to lay on them and soak up the rays. A faux log should be kept on the non-basking side of their enclosure, to give them a cool, safe place to hide.
Avoid fake, decorative plants, as a Uromastyx may try to eat them and get sick or die.
Heat and light
You will need a thermometer in their cage; there are inexpensive stick-on thermometers available at most pet stores. The basking side of a Uromastyx’ enclosure should be kept at 110°F during the day, the non-basking side at 85-95°F. At night the enclosure shouldn’t drop below mid to upper 70s. If your room temperature is below 72°, the use of an under-substrate heater is important. An under-substrate heater is like a heating pad that sticks to the underside of the terrarium.
Also necessary is a basking lamp. A heat/basking lamp will give you the ideal temperature for the enclosure, as well as provide the UVA and UVB rays which a Uromastyx needs to thrive. At pet stores, you can find these bulbs and the appropriate lamps to put them in. The light should be about 12-18 inches from the basking spot. It should be turned on for 12 hours a day, which can slightly be increased in the summer months.
Diet
A Uromastyx can have insects, like crickets, but they should make up 10% or less of their total diet. A Uromastyx does not need insects to survive. Uromastyx love dark greens, sprouts, romaine lettuce, and frozen (thawed) sweet peas (not canned). They also love dandelions, both the greens and the flowers; just make sure they aren’t treated with fertilizers. Veggies should occasionally be dusted with a calcium supplement. These foods will provide a healthy Uromastyx all the water they need in their diet.
They won’t need to be given a dish of water unless they’re sick, or if it is a female who just laid eggs. If a dish of water is provided, Uromastyx may stand in it causing their feet to rot. Water in their cage also provides humidity which is very much unwanted for a Uromastyx to be its healthiest. They are native to the driest desert climates.
A Uromastyx should be provided a constant supply of seeds. Either a shallow dish with a small birdseed blend or a stalk of millet is a good choice.
If you can follow all of these rules, you can expect a healthy Uromastyx to live 6-10 years, maybe even longer!
Sources:
Audrey Vanderlinden “Basic Care for Uromastyx Lizards” Exotic Pet Vet
