When it comes to sewing leather, you’ve got a ton of choices from the thickness of the leather to whether you hand sew or use a machine. Every choice you make dictates changes in how to go about sewing your leather items. Here are 10 tips to help make your leather sewing adventures as easy as possible.
Sewing Leather Tip #1: When you are piecing together your pattern before sewing, don’t use pins to secure leather pieces in place. Rather, use binder clips to avoid marking the leather if you are hand sewing and the added bulk won’t get in the way. A hand stapler will work if you are machine sewing your leather pieces and the holes will disappear in the seam allowance… just make sure not to stitch over a staple!
Sewing Leather Tip #2: If you hand sew your leather items, you will need a specific needle designed for hand sewing that has three super sharp edges to the point. It comes in three sizes depending upon the thickness of the leather you choose and will help you to more easily pierce the fabric.
Sewing Leather Tip #3: Depending upon how thick the leather is, you may want to use an awl or a rotary punch to poke holes in the leather where you want to stitch before you begin hand sewing. If you want to use laces to cinch up two leather pieces, an awl or rotary punch will be necessary to make the lacing holes.
Sewing Leather Tip #4: If you don’t have an awl and the leather is thick, you can use a pair of pliers to push the needle through the leather as you sew.
Sewing Leather Tip #5: To best secure seams, make sure that they are wide and that you reinforce them on the edges with a pinning (aka, whip or running) stitch.
Sewing Leather Tip #6: Sewing leather with a sewing machine also requires a special needle for the fabric. This, too, has a three sided point like the hand needle created for the same purpose.
Sewing Leather Tip #7: If binder clips will get in the way of machine sewing leather and you’re sewing a seam where staple holes would be visible if used, you can opt for rubber cement or glue to hold the seam in place until you can secure the seam with a machine stitch.
Sewing Leather Tip #8: Use the lightest foot pressure and thread tension possible and set your stitch length as wide as possible when machine sewing leather. Because leather is so thick, it is more likely to break otherwise.
Sewing Leather Tip #9: Avoid ironing leather to set the seams or finish the project. Instead, set the piece under heavy books or between two boards in a vise. Rubber cement and a mallet may work for the corners and other difficult details.
Sewing Leather Tip #10: Embellish your leather items with spikes and studs-no sewing required! Simply mark a pattern for the design on the leather with chalk or imprinting the spike/ stud prongs on the leather, then precut holes for the prongs using a craft knife. Insert the studs and spikes and flatten on the underside of your leather item.
Sources
Tips for Sewing Leather and Suede
Sewing Leather Forum
How to Sew Leather
Machine Sewing with Leather
Hand Sewing with Leather
