Melaka (sometimes spelled Malacca) is a sleepy city of 730,000 on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia, nestled between Singapore, Malaysia’s capital of Kuala Lumpur, and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. It has a rich history (the famous Straits of Malacca are named for the port), which when coupled with its small size and relaxed feel make it an ideal, short stop while exploring Malaysia, or perhaps even a short weekend trip for expats living in across the border in Singapore, or in the capital of Kuala Lumpur.
Getting There
While Melaka has a small airport, at the time of this writing the only flights were to the Sumatran oil town of Pekanbaru, directly across the straits in Sumatra. The simplest means of reaching Melaka are by bus, either from Singapore or Kuala Lumpur. Both the North-South Highway and the bus lines are modern, with frequent departures from either major city, making for a very easy, cheap, and pleasant ride by anyone’s standards (but especially so in Southeast Asia). There are also buses to other points in Malaysia, but these are less regular. The main bus terminal, Melaka Sentral, is about 3km from the city center, and from there you can catch either a local bus or a taxi into town.
It is also possible to rent a car in Singapore, and simply drive there yourself.
What to Do
The port of Melaka began life under a local Malay Sultanate, trading with Arabs, Chinese and just about anyone else who could brave the pirates and find their way into the Straits. The Portuguese arrived and conquered Melaka in 1511, and then the Dutch seized it from the Portuguese in 1641. The British then seized the colony from the Dutch during the long wars with the French that dominated the late 18th and early 19th Century, returned the colony, and then finally got it back in a territorial swap. It eventually became part of British Malaya.
Today the city continues to reflect this varied history. Ethnically, it is 57% Malaya, 32% Chinese, and the remainder being a mixture of Indians and Eurasian descendants of the original Portuguese colonists (the Kristang people). The large Chinese community naturally means that there is a multi-block Chinatown, and that is certainly worth a visit on a walking tour of Melaka’s sights.
The city also has numerous monuments from its Portuguese and Dutch past. On the Portuguese side are the hilltop remnants of an old Portuguese stone fort, A Formosa, and Saint Paul’s Church (Our Lady of Annunciation under the Portuguese). The Dutch cultural legacy is embodied in the Stadthuys and Christ Church.
Also worthy of a visit is the Melaka Cultural Museum and the Melaka Maritime Museum, entertainingly contained within a mock sailing brig. On weekends, a lively night market is held on Jonker Street. With Malaysia being known for its high culinary standards and combination of Malay, Chinese, and Indian cultures, foodies will have a field day with everything from the street vendors, to the fruit market, to the restaurants. However, Melaka also offers two treats all its own: a limited offering of Portuguese dishes, and the peculiar cuisine of the local Peranakan people. Finally, no visit to Melaka would be complete without a sunset stroll along the Melaka River.
Outside of town, those with anthropological leanings will not want to pass up a visit to the Portuguese Village, where the Eurasian descendants of the Portuguese colonists reside. They speak Kristang, a Portuguese Creole, and are the area’s Christian minority.
Where to Stay
Malaysia is a solidly middle income country. While not as wealthy as a Western state, it is not so poor to be anything like “Third World” either. So, even in places that are strictly secondary tourist locations like Melaka, there are a wide range of two and three star hotels, and by Western standards they are a bargain. It is the backpackers who will likely have a bit of a shock: Malaysia is quite expensive by shoe-string travel standards, and in the guesthouses you do not get much for your money. What you pay for a room with a plastic sheet floor, shared bath, and electric fan in Melaka would get you air con in Bangkok. Still, if you are on a budget its still cheaper than going to a real hotel.
Visitors will wind up staying in one of two areas while in Melaka: the old town center, or Melaka Raya. Melaka Raya is centered on a modern, medium-sized Mall. The area also has a free vegetarian eatery run by a group of Buddhists who survived the 2004 tsunami. Getting from here to old Melaka is easy, especially if you already took the bus from the central station to get to Melaka Raya: the same bus will take you to the old part of town.
Where to Go Next
Melaka is pleasant and certainly worth a stop, but it is not a major tourist destination in its own right. The next stops from Melaka are either north to Kuala Lumpur, south to Singapore, or east to the island of Pulau Tioman. With transport in Peninsular Malaysia being fast and modern, arrival in Kuala Lumpur is not the final stop, but simply a hub on the way to other points should you desire to press on that day. If you leave at a merely reasonable time in the morning (no need to get up before dawn in Malaysia!), you can connect to either the Cameron Highlands or Penang and arrive no later than early evening.
