My first experience with transplanting trees began with the offspring of a giant pecan tree in my backyard. The pecans that had not been picked up in the fall for making pralines or pecan pies were buried by winter rainstorms deep into the soil. Little saplings would appear each spring. These would come up with happy fresh green leaves.
I did my best to nurture their newfound glory by watering them thoroughly. I even had names for them such as ‘squatty baby’ and ‘droopy top’ or ‘itty bitty. During the summer, when the grass got thick, I avoided mowing them over by carefully monitoring their location. I was proud of my pecan-ese children.
But as they grew taller, I realized I had to do something with them. Their mother was going to keep blocking out the sun. There was no more space for adult trees. To save them, I decided to transplant these on a couple of acres I had in the country. It was an empty lot with few trees.
But my first attempt was pretty sad. I plucked them out of the ground carelessly with a shovel. I made shallow holes. I left the saplings sitting around for a few days completely exposed without moisture. Then when they were placed in the desired location, I expected the sun, wind and rain to take care of them for me. None of the first saplings I transplanted had survived. Clearly I could have been accused of botanical abuse.
My next attempts were a little wiser. It was only after several tries with transplanting that I finally got it right. There are certainly some things to do and some things to avoid.
WHEN TO TRANSPLANT
The most successful time for transplanting little or big trees is the dormant season. If you transplant a tree in the heat of summer, the roots will dry up and the plant will die. If you transplant the tree in the cold of winter, the roots will rot out and the plant will die. Spring is better, but late autumn is best. The trees go to sleep then and the trauma done to them is minimal.
FINDING A GOOD SPOT
Consider the type of tree and its need for shade or for full sun. Consider its location to other immovable fixtures in the area or other trees. How much space will it need when it is full grown? Placing it too close to other trees may block out vital sun, or prevent it from getting its share of nutrients or water from the ground. For most trees, try to maintain at least forty feet between it and the next tree. (I have a 15 year old pecan tree that stands just five feet away from a towering oak. This tree trunk has never matured and is only five inches in diameter).
DIGGING THE TREE OUT
Remember when you are digging the tree out of the ground, that there is certainly going to be some root damage. To minimize the damage done, dig a circle around the tree that is almost twice as wide as the length of the tree. In other words, if the tree is 15 inches tall, dig a circle around the tree that is up to 30 inches out from the tree. Gently lift up the ball of dirt that clings to the roots. This will be the base for the tree at the next location.
HANDLING THE ROOTS
When you get to the site, break away the dirt gently from the roots to examine them. Keep the roots moist and protect them from drying out. Wrap the whole tree in wet newspaper or keep the roots submerged in water (especially during hot days) until you can place the tree into the ground. But it is best to transplant the tree as soon as you can. The longer you wait, the harder it is for the tree to recover from the transplanting. Water is essential, but so is sun, air and the condition of roots. Before you transplant, make sure the roots are not twisted or bound tightly to each other. Cut away any that are tangled and rotted before you transplant. Avoid cutting the tap root (largest root) as doing this will certainly make the tree wither and die.
CREATING A MOUND FOR THE ROOTS
Carve out a hole in the ground by digging into the soil with a spade at an incline of an angle towards the center of the hole. This will serve as a well in the ground for the tree so that rainwater can be drawn into and percolate towards its center just under the root system. In the center of the well, create a mound of soil that is flush with the brim of the well, (look up the right type of soil mix for your tree). Mix the ball of soil that came out of the first dig with sand or soil mixture. Scoop this onto the top of the mound.
POSITIONING THE TREE
Place the roots of the tree around the top of the mound allowing them to spread out so they can get full aeration. Then take more of the soil and pack it on top of the roots on the mound gently and softly, keeping the roots moist until they are covered with soil.
Keep the base of the tree flush with the perimeter edge of the well. Place organic tree bark mulch on all sides of the tree and pack it firmly around the base. Water the top of the mound lightly so as not to disturb the mulch. Tamp it down gently again after watering on all sides to make sure it will provide a secure foundation for your tree.
WATERING
Make sure you generously water the well around the mound with at least 12 gallons of water the first time. I use milk jugs to ensure the right amount each day. Water the base of the tree every day with at least two gallons of water. Then every three days, thoroughly soak the well around the mound so that it fills up with at least 12 gallons of water.
PRUNING THE TOP
When the tree has had two or three days in the new location, clip away any small, dry, diseased, rotted or insignificant branches from the top. This will balance the amount of water the roots can handle while it is going through the traumatic process of reacclimatizing.
SUPPORT
For support of small trees, use stakes made of thick branch cuttings from other trees bound together with plastic wrap. Wind the wrap about the center towards the middle of the tree and then tie the ends of the plastic around the stakes. You can keep these in until the root system firmly establishes itself (about three months). In the winter months, wrap cloth around the base to the middle of the full length of the tree to protect against exposure to ice and extreme temperatures.
Lastly as a good parent ought to, educate yourself about the life you are raising up. Consider the type of nourishment the tree will need as it resumes its life in a new place. Consider the type of pests that it may be subject to. Find out what kind of solutions you could use to fertilize and protect it during its early years. I found some interesting information on insecticide solutions you can make yourself at home that are non-toxic and very nourishing for your plants. But I will leave that for another article.
Tree planting is a very rewarding and satisfying experience. When transplanting any tree, you are adding to the beauty of your landscape or garden. In addition, you are contributing to the health and the greening of the environment.
