Agra: Home of the Taj Mahal

When travelers think of India and the Taj Mahal, they are thinking of the city of Agra, whether they realize it or not. Although it is the Taj that attracts the most attention, and rightfully so, Agra offers other magnificent examples of the grandeur of Mughal India, such as the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri. Between the numerous attractions and its convenient location, Agra is the most touristed location of all of India, a status that has its virtues and its difficulties, for that makes Agra home to India’s largest body of aggressive touts, crooked rickshaw wallahs, beggars, and dodgy scam artists to be found anywhere in India.

Getting In

The classic way of getting to Agra is by train. Agra is on the direct line between New Dehli and both Mumbai (Bombay) and Chennai (Madras), far off in South-Central India. It also has rail connections to Kolkatta (Calcutta) to the east. From a rail point of view, it is a central location that can connect you to just about anywhere else in the country. Most of Agra’s visitors fly into New Dehli and come from Agra as part of a loop in North-Central and Northwestern India. As Agra is only 200km from New Dehli, if you get up early enough and plan ahead, it is possible to come down from New Dehli and do the basic sights of Agra as a day-trip.

Agra also has a small airport, with flights to Jaipur, Jodphur, and New Dehli. You can also hire a car and driver for the trip from New Dehli (or elsewhere) to Agra, but this is almost certainly more money than you would want to spend, given the excellent alternatives.

Before Seeing the Sights

The two man attractions of Agra proper are the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort. They are relatively close together, so much so that you can take in the spectacular view of either complex from the other, assuming the quintessential smog of India cities is not too thick that day. From the moment you arrive at the train station (and sometimes even the airport) you will be pestered by rickshaw and auto-rickshaw wallahs (drivers) who will want peddle their services for taking you from your hotel, to both the Taj Mahal and Agra Fort, maybe to a nice place to have lunch in between, and back to your hotel. If you engage the services of a wallah and his vehicle, be sure to negotiate the terms in advance. Also make sure he understands that you are not interested in going to any shops belonging to his associates, no matter how good the bargains are (many wallahs get commissions for bringing customers), even if you have to pay a little more.

Another thing to keep in mind about a visit to Agra is the air pollution that is a standard feature of any substantial city in India. If you have a condition that effects your breathing, bringing a respirator mask is strongly recommended.

Finally, be aware that the Agra Development Authority (ADA) charges a fee of 500 rupees for entry into Taj Mahal, Agra Fort, Itmud-ad-Daulah, Sikandra and Fatehpur Sikri. This is in addition to the individual entry fees for these sites, but once you have paid the ADA’s fee, you need only present your ticket as proof to avoid paying it again. When you get that ticket proving payment of the ADA fee, be sure to keep it and not throw it away with your old tickets!

The Taj Mahal

The Taj Mahal is one of the very few buildings in the world that is instantly recognizable, over-photographed, and still retains the power the “wow” even the most jaded traveler. The Taj was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife, and took 18 years to complete. However, it is less mausoleum and more a man-made mountain of white marble. The sheer size and glittering white perfection of the structure are staggering. Unlike Angkor Wat or the Pyramids, the Taj has been immaculately preserved, giving it a strong claim to being the single most impressive building in the world. Mosques, minarets and other tombs flank the Taj Mahal, any of which would rival all but the greatest medieval cathedrals in Europe, but all are mere appointments to the glory of the Taj Mahal.

Unsurprisingly, this magnificent structure is surrounded by poignant stories and famous commentary. Shah Jahan built it as a monument of love, and planned to have an identical tomb of black marble built across the river. He was unable to begin this ambitious project, as he was deposed by one of his more bloodthirsty sons. Shah Jahan lived out his remaining days a prisoner in Agra Fort, with a view of the Taj Mahal. Upon his death, he was entombed alongside his wife. The Indian poet Rabindranath Tagore said it best, calling the Taj Mahal “a teardrop on the cheek of eternity.”

Security at the Taj Mahal is tight, so be prepared to leave behind most of your possessions at a secured baggage check. Photography is allowed, but if you are using a film camera, be careful of underexposure do to the vast white surfaces. The Taj Mahal’s entrance fee is approximately $20, but they no longer accept US dollars due to the unstable value of American currency.

Agra Fort

This is the best preserved of the great Mughal fortresses, so many of which were damaged or destroyed during the Sepoy Mutiny of 1858. Agra Fort is made mostly of red sandstone with a white marble trim, although some buildings within are built from white marble. It is a combination fortress and palace, and rivals any of the great castles of Europe. It would be truly spectacular in its own right, but it is overshadowed by the glorious Taj Mahal down the river. However, being in Agra without a visit to Agra Fort is inconceivable, and a visit to both Agra Fort and Taj Mahal should occupy most of a day.

Fatehpur Sikri

Often overlooked, especially by the day-trippers from New Dehli, is the complex of Fatehpur Skiri, located on the outskirts of Agra. It was built by the emperor Akbar in the 16th Century, and was the center of the Mughal Empire for a brief period of time. Then the site was mysteriously abandoned. No one knows why for certain, but lack of water is the most common speculation. If you choose to spend more than just the day in Agra, hiring a car and driver for a visit to this site is mandatory, as it eclipses Agra Fort in it both scale and beauty.

Other Sites

Those interested in the Hindu religion will want to pay a visit to neighboring Mathura, the legendary birthplace of Lord Krishna, and its associated temples. Closer to the sites within Agra (10km away) is Sikandra, the tomb of the same Akbar who built Fatehpur Sikri.