One of the most magnificent areas to visit in Croatia is the Plitvicka Jezera National Park, which lies in the mountainous region of Southern Croatia. It was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 in recognition of its “outstanding natural beauty.”
Park and Walk
If you hire a car, the park is about halfway between Zagreb (the capital) and Split, a coastal city with a very historic city center. From either city, it’s a three- to four-hour drive. The park is open from 7:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. and costs 110 kuna per person, approximately $20. The price includes tram transport and a river ride.
In order to fully enjoy the lakes by hiking, get an early start. The paths along the edges are smooth and well-kept, and picturesque wooden walkways convey you around and across the water and through the falls for closer viewing. The best route is to begin at entrance one at the southern tip, hike along the southeastern edge, take the boat ride across the large central lake, then continue hiking to the largest lake at the northern end. If you don’t want to hike back along the opposite banks, you can catch the tram all the way back to entrance one.
Mountain Lakes and Waterfalls
The Plitvice plateau is surrounded by three mountains that are part of the Dinaric Alps: Plješevica Mountain, Mala Kapela Mountain, and Medveđak. Runoff from the mountains forms 16 distinct lakes, which are separated into an upper and lower cluster and descend from an altitude of 2,087 feet (636 m) to 1,650 feet (503 m) over a distance of some 5 miles (8 km).
The most spectacular waterfalls are at the southern lake as you enter the park. Although not nearly as high as some of the incredible falls in Yosemite or as awe-inspiring as Niagara, the hundreds of spillways and waterfalls along the lakes are each beautiful and delightful in their own way. Most unique is the incredible clear, turquoise-hued water that teems with brown trout, although no fishing is allowed. The water seems to change in color depending on the lighting and what minerals are in that pool.
You can view the top of the first and highest set of falls from a cliff, but be prepared to hike up 300 stone steps from the base. The water in these lower lakes is the most colorful. From the summit, you can walk along a trail that gives you fantastic views of the lower lakes and leads to one of several restaurants in the park.
If you disembark from the boat at its northern end (only one-way trips are given), take some time to really explore this area. The wooden walkways wind circuitously through the trees and over the ponds and small lakes and offer a spectacular array of spillways and water falls at every turn. Along with the lower falls, this area is truly a landscape painter’s dream.
Caves
There are also numerous caves, cavities, abysses, and ice pits within the Plitvice Lakes National Park. Some of the more interesting are basically inaccessible, but Supljara cave, which is near Kaluderovo Lake across from the large falls, has an entrance more than 60 feet (18.2 m) high and stone steps that lead from the lakes up to the western edge of the canyon above. There are several “halls” branching off in the middle of the cave.
Accommodations and Food
Halfway along the park on the western side are two hotels, but they are very expensive and neither is very attractive. There are countless B&Bs; and small hotels in the towns and along the roads within 6 or 7 miles of the park, and several are close enough to leave your car and walk to the park – parking in the main lot at entrance one is 70 kuna per day. Perhaps 300 feet (91.4 m) north of the parking lot is Marco Spehar No. 14, where several home owners have formed a B&B; combine. The rates are very reasonable, and the breakfast is not bad.
There are also several good restaurants in the area that offer adequate accommodations and much better food at a lower price than the hotels, such as the bistro Vila Velebita in Rudanovac, about 10 minutes north of entrance one on Highway 1. As do most local restaurants, they offer a great mixed grill that is very inexpensive, but politically correct eaters should be aware that veal is very big in Croatia.
A Pleasant Day in Nature
Unless you are a total nature lover, plan to spend only one day in the park. Pack some rain gear, as it can rain during the summer, although hot days are more common. No matter what, if you plan to vacation in beautiful, affordable Croatia, don’t miss a visit to Plitvicka Jezera National Park.
