A common misconception among black women is that natural hair is more difficult to manage than relaxed hair. Caring for natural hair does require different techniques but these techniques are just different not necessarily more cumbersome than relaxed hair care methods. Of course at the root (pun intended) of the “difficult to manage” argument is that even today many black women still cling to the notion that only bone straight hair is beautiful. This is an outdated and racist concept that comes from centuries of European aesthetics being the only standard of beauty. Attitudes about the beauty of black features and culture have begun to change, but still there is work to do. My sisters, embrace your unique texture and love your natural curls!
The Transition
Like many women of color, I got my first relaxer when I was a young girl and spent many years getting touch ups and enjoying various lengths and styles. After I while, I frankly got bored with having only straight hair. One day I just stopped getting relaxers and let my hair do its thing. This actually is a very risky thing to do because hair is at its weakest at the point where new growth meets the relaxed hair. After a couple years, I had a mane full of wild rambunctious hair. Not quite straight, not quite an afro, it became my “textured halo”. I loved my (mostly) natural tresses and I got plenty of compliments. Some women prefer to just go for the big chop instead of growing out the relaxer. I actually did this too. I cut off my “textured halo” and rocked a low natural for several years. For black hair, doing the big chop is the quickest and most effective way to ensure that all those unhealthy chemicals are gone as you start your journey towards natural hair.
The Products
Using the right products goes a long way towards achieving the look you desire. Many black women who have chosen to go natural have also chosen to use products that contain all natural ingredients. Light, natural oils such as rosemary and sage are common choices. The unique and often varied curl/wave pattern of black hair makes moisture an extremely important factor in choosing hair care products. It’s important to choose products that will moisturize effectively, but not weigh down the hair and clog hair follicles. If your scalp is not breathing, your hair is not growing. Black women often slather heavy greases and oils in their hair to make the hair shiny. The irony of that is the more those products are used, the duller the actual hair will be.
For those embracing natural curls, choose natural products that are specifically for that. Properly moisturizing curly hair is a unique challenge because the moisture has to somehow traverse root to tip with the various turns and spirals of the hair. There are products that are specifically designed to moisturize and enhance your natural curls. Personally, I’m a huge fan of Carol’s Daughter products. The Hair Milk is an essential part of my hair care routine as well as the rosemary detangler shampoo. There are other products and other manufacturers that cater to natural black hair needs too. Do some research, experiment and find what works for you.
The Tools
Products that prevent hair breakage at night are essential tools for both relaxed and natural hair. Silk scarves and pillowcases help to cut down on breakage. Hair can snag on cotton, polyester and other materials. Other important tools are wide-tooth comb, detangler brush (depending on texture of your hair), clothbound ponytail holders and a snag-free micro-fiber towel. All of these tools are used to reach essentially the same goal, to ensure that your hair doesn’t break off.
The Technique
After using a moisturizing, detangling shampoo, get directly under the stream of water and use a wide-tooth comb to further detangle your hair. A detangler brush could possibly be gently used as this point as well, but it is not recommended for very thick/kinky hair. Then apply a deep conditioner using a wide-tooth comb to distribute the conditioner evenly. After rinsing out the deep conditioner, pat dry with a micro-fiber towel. I like to avoid hair drying at all costs because excessive heat is not good for anyone’s hair. Add a leave-in conditioner and again use the wide-tooth comb to ensure even distribution. Use any type of moisturizer or light hair oil as necessary, utilizing your fingers or a comb to place the hair as desired. Add any headband, flower, ponytail holder or other accessory and voila! You are officially flaunting your beautiful natural hair.
