Look carefully at any used RV or travel trailer before you make a deal, whether the seller is a private owner or a dealership. The rules are “caveat emptor” – “Buyer Beware.” Arm yourself with information and the right tools before you open your wallet.
Not all RVs are purchased for vacationing. Many people are turning to RVs as a less expensive alternate to standard housing.
For this article, RV refers to any Class A, B or C motorhome, and any type of travel trailer.
Know what you can fix and what you can’t before you email, phone or see the item. It’s a “cool idea” to rebuild or fix up an old or vintage RV, but it’s not always cheap and often beyond the scope of expertise of “general handyperson” skills.
Parts for certain systems, such as plumbing, must be RV specific. Regular household plumbing parts aren’t made to “bounce down a road” – they’ll break or leak, causing damage.
Tools to take with you:
· Notebook and pen
· Measuring tape
· Flashlight with extra working batteries
· Tarp for laying on the ground or pavement – yes, you’re going under the RV
· Ladder – you’re going on the roof, too. Bring padding – an old blanket or mover’s quilted padding works to protect the outside of RVs.
· Circuit tester- available at any DIY store for under $10. The instructions are easy to follow.
1. Before leaving the house, write down any questions you may have about the pictures you’ve seen in the newspaper or online. Examples of good questions to ask are:
How old is the RV?
How much does it weigh? This is an important question – if it’s too heavy for your tow vehicle, you have three choices – a) get a new tow vehicle, b) buy a different trailer, or c) pay someone to tow it. The last isn’t so bad if the RV is purchased and used as a residence.
Are you the first owner? If you see dents, ask if it’s been in an accident- try to get a reasonable explanation of the dent (bigger than a “road-ping”).
Do you have clear title? How about registration? These may not be required in all states- check with your local DMV first to find out what RVs/trailers need to have. Some states also require safety inspections, so be prepared to ask the seller for the information. (In some states, the lost title process isn’t worth it – pass.) If the seller is working “for a friend,” ask to see the title first. If the “friend” is “looking for it,” state you’ll be back when the friend finds it.
Have there been any water/gas leaks? Are there any problems with the electric? If so, what, where and are they fixed? See the sites for yourself.
How long has the RV been sitting? When was the last time it was used? If the holding tanks or water lines weren’t properly taken care of, there could be expensive problems.
If any seller has a problem with simple questions, walk. There are other trailers in the world.
2. Do a general walk-around outside the trailer. Note any stains on the ground or pavement – ask about them. Tires shouldn’t be flat, shouldn’t show signs of dry-rot or bald spots. Note if the tires are different sizes. This does happen, and it’s a sign to leave.
Note any stains around the window/door seals. This could be evidence of serious water leaks, and the interior wood frame could be rotted. Push on the exterior wall- if it gives, go inside and push on the same side. It shouldn’t make mushy or crackly sounds. Note any stains on the ceiling near the vent(s) or AC unit. Unless you want to rebuild the interior frame, walk. Or at least negotiate a huge discount.
3. Measure the RV to see if the ad is correct about the length. If you want to keep it in your driveway, measure that before you go and note it in the notebook. A 26-foot long driveway won’t house a 40-foot long trailer. Some communities have restrictions on the size of RVs in front of houses or in driveways. Include the hitch of trailers. Know before you go.
4. If possible, ask to see the power cord plugged in so you can test the outlets, lights, microwave, refrigerator, etc. If the seller says, “everything works” and the AC doesn’t turn on while you’re at a 100-degree campground 400 miles away, you’re in trouble. Use the circuit tester to test every outlet. Test every switch – just remember not to turn on everything at once – often, older RVs have only one circuit, and you’ll blow it if you’re not careful. They weren’t configured for today’s electronics. Most were used in the day of setting up and spending time outside.
Test the water system with the hose connection hooked up to a water source. If any pipes/tanks leak, be aware repairs are needed before using the RV.
5. Open every storage compartment, and notice if any of the metal is bent inside. This could indicate a prior wreck. Make sure the doors and latches work well, and notice if the seals are in good shape. This is a good place to check for water damage as well.
6. Lay down your tarp and crawl under the RV. Using the flashlight, look at the back of the tires. Dry rot, weeds, wires and more could indicate lack of maintenance. Notice if water stains appear under the floor, or if the floor appears in patches. Repaired floors aren’t uncommon, especially in older RVs. Ask questions about the repairs. If water and sewer pipes are held in place by makeshift wires instead of pipe straps, ask questions.
Look at all of the hoses, wires, etc. Rodents are known to chew on rubber/plastic/electrical lines while RVs are in long-term storage.
Look at the stabilizer jacks. They may look like bars or scissor jacks, depending on the size of the RV. Bent metal, rust or cracked welds need to be dealt with.
7. Get the ladder out and look at the roof. Note if the sealant around the A/C or vents has cracked. This is a prime spot for leaks. If the roof is non-metal, look for pitted or worn spots. These will need work first. Metal roofs have seams – is the sealant intact? Are any screws/bolts missing?
8. Look at the floors carefully. Put your foot down, especially in the bathroom and around the kitchen. A soft floor spells trouble. Most RV floors are particleboard, which doesn’t play nice with prolonged exposure to water. Go figure. (Hey, it’s light and cheap, and when it’s dry, it’s very strong.)
10. Take a test drive/tow. Not everyone will allow a trailer to be “test towed.” If taking the trailer to a professional inspection, a monetary deposit may be required. Be sure to get an agreement in writing that the deposit may be returned when the trailer is, if the sale does not go through. It could be applied to the sale price if it passes the buyer’s inspection.
Notes to ponder:
· Keep in mind that many repairs are made by owners, and aren’t necessarily a reason to walk away from a good deal.
· Just because a deal is “as is,” you should still carefully consider what you’re getting into. Often, if the damage/repairs are more than your finances/skills/time can bear, the deal can’t be overturned by a judge unless the buyer can prove fraud.
· Needing repairs shouldn’t be the deal-breaker if you have reasonable skills. RV water lines are made of PEX plastic tubing, a material that bends easily and isn’t known for freezing or rupturing. It’s fairly easy to work with.
·. If anything needs repairs, you’ll know it there. Decide whether you want to keep the deal or return it for a refund. Make sure the contract is clear for both sides. If you take it home and forget about it for the warranty period, you’re stuck with your purchase.
· Don’t let the age of a trailer stop the sale. Many vintage trailers were built without A/C units, which can be added later. Bathrooms/toilets/showers were also not part of most “weekend trailers” before the late 1960’s, however they too can be added for a price. For vintage trailers that are shown, these additions will affect the judging and resale value.
Lacking the time/expertise to perform a detailed inspection, the buyer could request a professional RV inspection at a reputable RV repair dealership. The dealership would provide a detailed description of what works and what doesn’t, as well as cost for repairs.
Any seller could also take the RV to a dealership and provide copies of this information to potential buyers. I’d rather deal with an honest seller any day. Of course, the repair shop/dealership inspection isn’t free, but it could save thousands for a buyer, and help sell the RV quicker for the seller.
Houses are inspected prior to purchase- this is standard practice. A detailed inspection of an RV only makes sense, even if it will only be used on the weekends.
The buyer could use the report to negotiate a better price, walk away from the deal or request certain, if not all, repairs implemented as part of the sale contract.
Source: Randy Goodwin, “How to Find and Inspect Used RVs and Used Travel Trailers,” Hub Pages website, no date given
Source: The Author of this article is currently purchasing a vintage travel trailer after having crawled under, climbed over and poked into every conceivable nook and cranny. Satisfied none of the repairs is out of her “handyperson skills,” the purchase will go through. Many experienced RV and trailer owners offered their advice and declined to be named or photographed for this article. They will always have my undying gratitude.
